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Rear peep mounted. The gun had no caliber markings or model # on it. I decided to engrave it on the mount so at least the next owner will have a clue as to the gun and the caliber! http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/mount2.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/moun...

Got it mounted today. I wound up going .125 deep from where the drill touched the barrel. I used a standard 118 degree drill and came out with 4 1/2 threads. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/screwed.jpg I bought both a plug tap and bottom tap from Midway(Hanson carbon steel). I co...

I like the idea of having only one hidden screw. The bottom of the sight has a radius that matches the barrel. That along with a well engaged screw should be more that strong enough to keep it in place. I would think the engineers at Marbels sights did their homework.

Thanks Blue68 It sounds like your BDL sight screw hole is almost into the bore. It's probably got a barrel diameter of .625, which would only leave .033 between the bottom of the hole and the bore, assuming it is a .308 bore. :?: I think I will shoot for 5 threads which will put me slightly over .10...

Here is the original sight. The barrel had a step on the end and it and the sight set screwed over it with a keyway like slot. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/IMG_20120119_084124.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/IMG_20120119_084151.jpg http://i35.photobucke...

I am currently working on sporterizing an old military rifle and cut the 31" barrel down to 25". I crowned the barrel and need to drill and tap it for a Marbels front sight blade. The O.D. of the barrel measures .642, and the groove diameter of the bore is .308. That leaves a wall thickness of .167 ...

Well I got my sights in. I made a mounting plate to slide over the existing rear sight pad. I plan on setscrewing it to the barrel. bottom: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/peep3.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/peepblock.jpg from above: http://i35.photobuck...

According to the research I've done on these guns they were capable of MOA shots at 1000 yards. Every Swiss male was required to enter the military back and then and afterwards required to keep their weapons for civilian defense. No liberal thinking over there back in the day :-) Maybe that's why th...

A friend of the family gave me a Scmidt Rubin straight pull model 1911 that he picked up years ago at a gun shop. It's a Swiss military rifle that has been sporterized. All the serial #'s match on the parts, even the stock. I've had if for about a year, but I finally found a magazine that it was mis...

Grips add dimension too...makes for a wider grip not to mention covering up the plastic. Fits my hand much better!

I was hoping for more of a military color but I was at the mercy of the anodizer. I made a couple extra...pm me and I'll send you one for all your help.

I've had the gun done for some time now. I went shooting yesterday for the first time in quite a while. I showed a friend this post and that's when I realized I never posted the finished pictures.... Here goes... http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/boltbusterdw/left-1.jpg http://i35.photobucket.c...

lucam wrote:

boltbusterdw wrote:

How about making it out of steel and soldering it in place? Might work better on a S/S model.

No need to solder, the blank cannot pivot as its held tight against the radius on both sides and then pinned in place in the middle.

I didn't realize the original LCI's were steel. So...We can all thank Bullseye for the newer Plastic one. :wink: If Ruger would of left the steel on the outside and put the plastic on the inside the LCI would have much more appeal. Kudos to lucam for replacing the stock on his plastic airgun. I too ...

You can't have it. I work at a machine shop with my dad and he says for as much as it cost, when he dies he wants to use it as his headstone!