New LCR-22 for ruger 22
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HMMM. Maybe that's the difference???? I read that .02 and less is good. Is that right?
Jack
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Our posts crossed. Perhaps that's the problem. Seems I may have to send it back again. Strange that they would change the cylinder and not give it the correct gap.
Jack
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
You mean .002? Some people like that, and it would be good for a competition gun, but not very practical for most of us. Doesn't take many rounds to gunk up a .002 gap and make the cylinder bind. I'm happy with .004 -.007. Both of my Bearcats are .006.Jack D wrote:HMMM. Maybe that's the difference???? I read that .02 and less is good. Is that right?
* 2 Ruger Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
Not sure now. I'd need to find what I read again. They've spent enough on this gun, just in airfreight to just send me a new one. This one is earlier than your first one 022XX. Assuming they run in sequence.ruger22 wrote:You mean .002? Some people like that, and it would be good for a competition gun, but not very practical for most of us. Doesn't take many rounds to gunk up a .002 gap and make the cylinder bind. I'm happy with .004 -.007. Both of my Bearcats are .006.Jack D wrote:HMMM. Maybe that's the difference???? I read that .02 and less is good. Is that right?
I just fired off another email CS request to Ruger with a picture and told them the cylinder gap was .013". Now for the wait for an answer.
Jack
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
I just checked my SP101 and it is .007 tight. .006 is probably closer to correct.
Thanks for the Question bgreenea3. You may have given me the answer to my leading problem. We'll see what Ruger CS says.
Thanks for the Question bgreenea3. You may have given me the answer to my leading problem. We'll see what Ruger CS says.
Jack
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
I sent Ruger CS an "Online Form" message about the leading and cylinder gap. They promise a max. 3 days for a reply, but it took six days. And that reply said they would have a CS rep call me. Waited by the phone all day for a call that never came. Hopefully tomorrow (Monday, 8th).
In the meantime, I took some more measurements.
.014" cylinder gap both static and trigger pulled and held.
.014" cylinder gap, static loaded with unfired Stingers.
.007" with cylinder manually pushed fully forward.
.007" cylinder slack on the crane.
The fix for this seems so simple. Set the barrel ~.009" deeper.
Removing the cylinder/crane slack would also help, but that would move the cartridge further away from the firing pin and could result in misfires. It might also cause the cylinder to seize as it heats up during firing.
I wish I could do it myself, so I could move on.
In the meantime, I took some more measurements.
.014" cylinder gap both static and trigger pulled and held.
.014" cylinder gap, static loaded with unfired Stingers.
.007" with cylinder manually pushed fully forward.
.007" cylinder slack on the crane.
The fix for this seems so simple. Set the barrel ~.009" deeper.
Removing the cylinder/crane slack would also help, but that would move the cartridge further away from the firing pin and could result in misfires. It might also cause the cylinder to seize as it heats up during firing.
I wish I could do it myself, so I could move on.
Jack
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Ruger SP101, 3", .357, CT laser
Ruger SR22P, CT laser
Ruger LCR22, CT laser
Ruger 10/22 Deluxe, scoped
H&R Handi, .357 customized, laser, red dot, scope, weapon light, bipod
Benjamin-Sheridan, 5mm (.20), scoped.
Looks like your troubles are similar to what mine had, a sloppy cylinder fit on the crane.
I did some thought and recleaned my forcing cone area and cylinder face, with patient use of a lead removal cloth. Turns out my frame and cylinder finish are okay. What I thought I was bare metal was actually thin smears of lead. It all looks 99% factory new now.
Hope Ruger gets the ball rolling for you. They can get you a good one, like I finally got.
I did some thought and recleaned my forcing cone area and cylinder face, with patient use of a lead removal cloth. Turns out my frame and cylinder finish are okay. What I thought I was bare metal was actually thin smears of lead. It all looks 99% factory new now.
Hope Ruger gets the ball rolling for you. They can get you a good one, like I finally got.
* 2 Ruger Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols