What is a "punch" to move firing pin stop?

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 7:47 pm

I am going to swap out the extractor on my ruger with the VQ extractor that arrived today...next cleaning.

What is a "punch" that I will move the firing pin stop with? I have the hollow firing pin stop. I am assuming it is a thin metal rod that I can tap with a hammer to get the pin to slide? Is there a specific size (diameter) of the punch to use? And where would I look for one?

wlambert · Post by **wlambert** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:32 pm

You want a punch with a flat end that comes close to matching the diameter. Sears Hardware should have them.

wlambert

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:06 pm

A set of pin punches like these -

They don't cost very much at a tool supply store $5-$10 for a set.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:28 am

ok, thanks. does it matter what metal they are made of?

ecdoesit · Post by **ecdoesit** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:59 am

I ordered a Roll Pin Punch (stock # 230-100-004) from Brownells since I've decided to see if replacing the extractor will end my Mark III Hunter stovepiping nightmare. You will need the 1/8 inch diameter punch. I also ordered a packing hook (stock # 197-654-200) to follow closely Bullseye's instructions for replacing the extractor.

I think you need to look at Bullseye's instructs on replacing the extractor: http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm#extractor

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:00 am

what is a packing hook...is that the tool with the yellow handle in the picture?

heh, so much for my $10 part....

ecdoesit · Post by **ecdoesit** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:10 am

The packing hook is a scribe. It is used to hold back the plunger rod during extractor replacement. Some people use a very small screwdriver, but I figured since this gun is so problematic I might as well start tooling up properly for a lifetime of gunsmithing.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:15 am

I have both kinds but I use the steel punches more than the brass ones. Plus the steel ones last longer without deformation.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:04 pm

I was able to find a punch (1/8") at homedepot. The medication store sells a dentist's hook/scraper...can I use that instead of a scribe?

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:07 pm

The dental tool may be too hard and break, especially if the hook is really long. A Jeweler's screwdriver is the best alternate for replacing the extractor.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:15 pm

Ok thanks, I have some very small screwdrivers maybe one will work.

Is it necessary to follow the step where the extractor plunger is removed? Why not just insert the new extractor while still holding the plunger back?

recumbent · Post by **recumbent** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:15 pm

I use the dentist hook works fine for me.
but i wear glasses in case it should break and go flying>>>>

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:21 pm

You do not have to take the plunger completely out of the bolt to replace the extractor hook. I just did that to show the relationship between the components and the bolt for the web help page.

Remember - the extra spring that comes with the VQ extractor is for use in a 10/22 rifle only, use the factory spring you have in your pistol.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:05 am

Thanks. Did the swap last night. Used a couple dental picks, placed one in the top to hold the extractor back and another to get in the gap between the plunger and hook. The VQ extractor fits so tight however that I doubt this would work to get it out if the need ever arose, unless I sharpened the hook or went with a sharper tool which I assume the scribe is.

Anyway, the grip it gets on a spent casing is like night and day. I never realized how loosely griped and wobbly my old extractor was. I don't think the edge on the stock one was bad, just how loosely it fit the plunger may have been the problem. It is pretty obvious once the extractor is out, you can see the smooth edges where the plunger and the extractor base fit. On the VQ its a much sharper and snugger fit. The VQ really grabs on tight to that casing, it is difficult to imagine ever having a stove pipe again due to the extractor. Have not actually fired it yet, but cycling spent casings manually and no problems whatsoever.

So...if I was able to do this swap, does this demonstrate that I would be able to manage a VQ trigger/sear job myself?

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:46 pm

Yes, now that you've mastered the three-handed maintenance technique.

R,
Bullseye