....but I'm undergoing treatment!
I'm happy to answer any Q's
SD
The Obsession!
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
The Obsession!
....but I'm undergoing treatment!
I'm happy to answer any Q's
SD
what a sight
golly-dang::::
Song Dawg: Sir; what a showing.
Lordy Lordy my grandmother would say.
Thanks;
Song Dawg: Sir; what a showing.
Lordy Lordy my grandmother would say.
Thanks;
Craig
By the standards of most
By the standards of most
Hey Dawg,
The fourth one down, is that a Barracuda in "Hornet"? How is it off of the bags? I was thinking about getting one for my next build, which is planned to be an ultra-light ultimate, and was wondering if it does OK off the bags as well as being a good offhand shooter for speed events.
Thanks
JJ
The fourth one down, is that a Barracuda in "Hornet"? How is it off of the bags? I was thinking about getting one for my next build, which is planned to be an ultra-light ultimate, and was wondering if it does OK off the bags as well as being a good offhand shooter for speed events.
Thanks
JJ
If you immediately know the candlelight is fire, then the meal was cooked long ago.
JJ,
This one hasn't been there yet...still curing! But my others which are indentical to this guy other than color are great both off hand as well as off the rest or bag. (#seven and #eight) I use a bag lately. The other stock you might consider is the "ambi" Evolution in hornet...... dual cheek pieces and slightly shorter.
However, the forend on the Barracuda is flatter than the Evo.
I like the GM barrels in 16.5" fluted. I just like the feel and handling. As a walk arounder for squeaks it's almost not fair...which is exactly what I was goin' for!
I've come to appreciate the channelless stocks.
Some folks claim to have had trouble with barrel droop but not me!
If you need anything including close ups pics or measurements just yell!
SD
This one hasn't been there yet...still curing! But my others which are indentical to this guy other than color are great both off hand as well as off the rest or bag. (#seven and #eight) I use a bag lately. The other stock you might consider is the "ambi" Evolution in hornet...... dual cheek pieces and slightly shorter.
However, the forend on the Barracuda is flatter than the Evo.
I like the GM barrels in 16.5" fluted. I just like the feel and handling. As a walk arounder for squeaks it's almost not fair...which is exactly what I was goin' for!
I've come to appreciate the channelless stocks.
Some folks claim to have had trouble with barrel droop but not me!
If you need anything including close ups pics or measurements just yell!
SD
One more question,
On the second one I love the color and depth of the wood. I am going to build a "SuperStock" and have a nice new stock that came off of a WWS. Did you strip and re-oil that one? If so, what was your process? I am pretty good with building/working on my firearms, but a wood guy I am not. So please be specific if you have a process. Thanks!
JJ
On the second one I love the color and depth of the wood. I am going to build a "SuperStock" and have a nice new stock that came off of a WWS. Did you strip and re-oil that one? If so, what was your process? I am pretty good with building/working on my firearms, but a wood guy I am not. So please be specific if you have a process. Thanks!
JJ
If you immediately know the candlelight is fire, then the meal was cooked long ago.
Sure JJ,
The second one is a real walnut from a mid 70's stocker "DSP" which I took down to bare wood and built back up.
Notice the buttplate is not the current rubber 1/2" pad?
Back then Ruger was surprisingly picky about the quality of the walnut that passed as finished products.
Early on 1964-1971 or so Ruger farmed this work out to the WWII stock maker SE Overton. Many a great stock with nothing more than the most minor of flaws became firewood unfortunately.
Further Ruger abandon the walnut stocks on the RB"carbine" back in approx 1984 replacing it with Birch and then for a short time maple. Birch however prevailed as the most "cost effective way to go. That's what they use currently.
Caution:
The Ruger DSP continues to be walnut.
The look alike WWS you referenced is BIRCH not walnut.
Birch will not finish very easily at all.
It doesn't accept stain well.
I have done a few with mixed results.
Here's the procedure.:
Take it down to bare wood via your favorite method. sanding, chemicals, swearing etc
If the stock is new or otherwise in good shape final sand with 220 or even 400 to close the pours. Otherwise you must get the dents out...I use steam.
Tip:
Use a pre-stain product like Min Wax's pre-stain on pine and birch.
Follow the directions!
This will give you a good shot at even absorbtion of stain.
Ruger uses a combo product of color and final finish because birch is a
b!tc#.
I've done at least one with a similar walnut tinted poly.
It never passed for walnut but I didn't expect it to. It did look very good however.
Decide on a tinted finish combo product or stain and separate finish.
If you go stain and finish I recommend Min Wax tung oil as a final. Three coats as a minimum = satin type finish more coats will render more gloss.
Follow the tung oil directions for the desired finish.
Tung Oil is forgiving, tough, easily touched up and cost effective.
BTW, the checkering is a whole "nother" kettle of fish. I've tried masking with fair results.
The stock in the post had one thin coat "diluted"(spit coat) applied to the entire stock including the checkering. The subsequent coats omitted the checkering. A fine dry brush was used to take care of errant finish in the checkering.
Take your time but remember that birch "ain't" walnut no matter what we do to it!
SD
The second one is a real walnut from a mid 70's stocker "DSP" which I took down to bare wood and built back up.
Notice the buttplate is not the current rubber 1/2" pad?
Back then Ruger was surprisingly picky about the quality of the walnut that passed as finished products.
Early on 1964-1971 or so Ruger farmed this work out to the WWII stock maker SE Overton. Many a great stock with nothing more than the most minor of flaws became firewood unfortunately.
Further Ruger abandon the walnut stocks on the RB"carbine" back in approx 1984 replacing it with Birch and then for a short time maple. Birch however prevailed as the most "cost effective way to go. That's what they use currently.
Caution:
The Ruger DSP continues to be walnut.
The look alike WWS you referenced is BIRCH not walnut.
Birch will not finish very easily at all.
It doesn't accept stain well.
I have done a few with mixed results.
Here's the procedure.:
Take it down to bare wood via your favorite method. sanding, chemicals, swearing etc
If the stock is new or otherwise in good shape final sand with 220 or even 400 to close the pours. Otherwise you must get the dents out...I use steam.
Tip:
Use a pre-stain product like Min Wax's pre-stain on pine and birch.
Follow the directions!
This will give you a good shot at even absorbtion of stain.
Ruger uses a combo product of color and final finish because birch is a
b!tc#.
I've done at least one with a similar walnut tinted poly.
It never passed for walnut but I didn't expect it to. It did look very good however.
Decide on a tinted finish combo product or stain and separate finish.
If you go stain and finish I recommend Min Wax tung oil as a final. Three coats as a minimum = satin type finish more coats will render more gloss.
Follow the tung oil directions for the desired finish.
Tung Oil is forgiving, tough, easily touched up and cost effective.
BTW, the checkering is a whole "nother" kettle of fish. I've tried masking with fair results.
The stock in the post had one thin coat "diluted"(spit coat) applied to the entire stock including the checkering. The subsequent coats omitted the checkering. A fine dry brush was used to take care of errant finish in the checkering.
Take your time but remember that birch "ain't" walnut no matter what we do to it!
SD
Hey, thanks for all the info! But after reading all of that I think that I will leave that one alone, and instead maybe get one that is made out of maple to begin with. I am very glad that I asked though, as I was considering going to the store to get stuff to try it out this morning. Thank you.
JJ
JJ
If you immediately know the candlelight is fire, then the meal was cooked long ago.
JJ,
Suggestion: You can still get an older walnut Ruger via ebay or perhaps your local shop. I find them as takeoffs as a result of a(build) conversion. If you can find one of these I'll help you through it.
Have you considered one of these? They are somewhat more available and a little less $$$ than the DSP checkered stock. This one has the metal buttplate which I totally refinished as well.
These are the DSP variety. A progressive look. Gloss can be controlled by number of appilications of finish. This one was a freind's diseased Dad's and came to me so beat up it look as if it were hopeless.
SD
Suggestion: You can still get an older walnut Ruger via ebay or perhaps your local shop. I find them as takeoffs as a result of a(build) conversion. If you can find one of these I'll help you through it.
Have you considered one of these? They are somewhat more available and a little less $$$ than the DSP checkered stock. This one has the metal buttplate which I totally refinished as well.
These are the DSP variety. A progressive look. Gloss can be controlled by number of appilications of finish. This one was a freind's diseased Dad's and came to me so beat up it look as if it were hopeless.
SD
Thanks Bullseye!
The DSP's were Tung Oil.
The first stock pictured was a beat up walnut carbine which was a Ruger issue walnut and not an early Overton walnut. Probably early 70's
The best wood was the early Overton's (60's) but the first Ruger walnuts were good too..... early 70's
It was finished with a product called ArmRseal by General Finishes. Harder to get lately and a little pricey but it does an excellent job.
Like most products it's got it's own quirks. It's a blend of Tung , and other varnishes and some poly for durability. Somehow they blend it right and it's effective.
Remember that products which we/they call Tung Oil in fact contain little pure tung oil. They are blends of various varnishes and driers. However, Tung oil products are great on gun woods because it can be re-applied with little or no hassle when the inevitable digger comes along.
The DSP's here were done with Minwax Tung Oil...available darn near everywhere.
As I've been helped here so often I'm happy to help others with something of which I may have some knowledge.
Those with any questions regarding a contemplated stock project please ask away. I love rescuing the old Rugers for the next generation of shooters!
SD
The DSP's were Tung Oil.
The first stock pictured was a beat up walnut carbine which was a Ruger issue walnut and not an early Overton walnut. Probably early 70's
The best wood was the early Overton's (60's) but the first Ruger walnuts were good too..... early 70's
It was finished with a product called ArmRseal by General Finishes. Harder to get lately and a little pricey but it does an excellent job.
Like most products it's got it's own quirks. It's a blend of Tung , and other varnishes and some poly for durability. Somehow they blend it right and it's effective.
Remember that products which we/they call Tung Oil in fact contain little pure tung oil. They are blends of various varnishes and driers. However, Tung oil products are great on gun woods because it can be re-applied with little or no hassle when the inevitable digger comes along.
The DSP's here were done with Minwax Tung Oil...available darn near everywhere.
As I've been helped here so often I'm happy to help others with something of which I may have some knowledge.
Those with any questions regarding a contemplated stock project please ask away. I love rescuing the old Rugers for the next generation of shooters!
SD
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arizona-hermit
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