Front sight blade

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Sat May 05, 2012 7:37 pm

I have to aim at 12:00 to hit center target at 30' with my Ruger Vaquero Bisley.
I have been told that it is somewhat common to grind the front blade sight down
to get the desired results. Just wondering if anybody has experience with this technique,
and how difficult it is to do?
Haka

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat May 05, 2012 8:24 pm

It is not that difficult to do if you have a nice flat blade file and a well padded vise.

Here's the formula for calculating the height of your front sight.

Amount of Error X Sight Radius = Sight Correction Needed
Distance to Target

You want to keep all the measurements in inches. When you do the height of the blade will be in thousandths of an inch. Measure from the front of the rear blade to the back of the front sight blade for sight radius. Measure from your aiming point to the actual hit point for amount of error. If you want to change the point of aim to a six o'clock position on the target, you'll want to measure from the bottom of the aiming black to the center and add that total to your amount of error. For 30' you want to use 360" as distance to target. Once you divide the totals you will get the height of the front sight blade when measured from the base of the blade to the aiming top. Remember to slope the blade forward slightly, like it is now, for a good sighting blade. Keep the file parallel with the barrel and use full strokes to cut the blade.

R,
Bullseye

charlesb · Post by **charlesb** » Sun May 06, 2012 6:31 pm

I always sneak up on stuff like that.

I'll take a little off, try it out and compare to what it did before. If I am working by a calculation, I will stop just short of the recommended cut, and try it out like that before I take off the last bit.

A lot of times, getting it prettied up again after cutting or filing will take off a bit of metal too, so it's good to allow for that.

- Another consideration is load development. With six-guns in particular, where such a wide variety of loads will function, sometimes you can fine-tune the point of aim with your load, bullet weight, etc..

If you tailor fixed sights for use with a special or particular load, I think of that process as 'registering' the firearm.

Good luck!

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Sun May 06, 2012 7:44 pm

Some good tips, thanks. For me, I think I am going to put an orange dot(paint) on the fsb where I think the desired poa will be. The orange dot can be moved up or down depending on where I want it without damage to the fsb. Damage = "any amout of fsb removed that I wish I had back" ! Then I can test it out at my desired range and see where it targets. Like what was mentioned, a little bit by little bit, erring on the side of taking too little off will be my approach. My main concerns are not taking too much off, and 'what's the best way to remove stock off the fsb? dremel or file. B.E. says file, and I tend to like that approach.
Haka

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Mon May 07, 2012 5:46 pm

First filing comparison to original. The shape is not like the original, but the
high point on each picture is relatively the same. When I am happy with the
shooting results I will carefully reshape to the original design. No unwanted
scratches yet, I hope to keep it that way. We'll see how it shoots,
haka

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Mon May 07, 2012 6:43 pm

No unwanted scratches yet, I hope to keep it that way.

Cover the barrel with duct tape, couple of layers. It's heavy enough to protect the barrel/gun.

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon May 07, 2012 6:43 pm

Once you get it to the height you desire then you can round the back side to allow for smoother holster work.

A little duct tape in strategic placement can help prevent any unintentional marks from an errant file.

R,
Bullseye

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Mon May 07, 2012 6:56 pm

Once you get it to the height you desire then you can round the back side to allow for smoother holster work.

A little duct tape in strategic placement can help prevent any unintentional marks from an errant file.

R,
Bullseye

Exactly what I was thinking. I used a coarse file and then a sharpening stone. I also used duct tape to get to this point, it just seemed like the best solution.
Haka

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon May 07, 2012 7:06 pm

Go slow, once you take it off you can't put it back.

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Mon May 07, 2012 7:34 pm

Bullseye wrote:Go slow, once you take it off you can't put it back.

R,
Bullseye

Are you sure? when you push a file it takes metal off, won't it put it back on iff you pull it backwards?

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Tue May 08, 2012 1:07 am

bearandoldman wrote:
Bullseye wrote:Go slow, once you take it off you can't put it back.

R,
Bullseye
Are you sure? when you push a file it takes metal off, won't it put it back on iff you pull it backwards?

I bet there have been 'poor souls' who wish that were true!

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue May 08, 2012 4:15 am

Hakaman wrote:
bearandoldman wrote:
Bullseye wrote:Go slow, once you take it off you can't put it back.

R,
Bullseye
Are you sure? when you push a file it takes metal off, won't it put it back on iff you pull it backwards?
I bet there have been 'poor souls' who wish that were true!

You mean it sn't?

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Tue May 08, 2012 11:14 am

Question:
When I find the correct height that provides the right aim I'm looking for,
would you reshape the blade similar to the original style? (rounded at the front and rear?)

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue May 08, 2012 11:32 am

Hakaman wrote:Question:
When I find the correct height that provides the right aim I'm looking for,
would you reshape the blade similar to the original style? (rounded at the front and rear?)

What ever shape you like Haka. it is YOUR gun.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue May 08, 2012 5:21 pm

Yes, if you plan to do any holster work with your vaquero.

R,
Bullseye