Gold Cup optic mount

[mastersid]

To all;
Have a 80 Series Gold Cup with a no drill B Square slide mount with an Ultra Dot site.
It came loose during a local Bullseye match. We are all novices, learning new stuff. When I tighten the mount enough to manage the recoil, the slide release binds up and the pistol malfunctions.
I do not want to drill the slide, in case I want to return to a CMP legal configuration. How about a grip mount from Brownells? Or should I buy an aftermarket slide and drill and tap a mount?
Any advice?
Thanks, Sid

[bearandoldman]

To all;
Have a 80 Series Gold Cup with a no drill B Square slide mount with an Ultra Dot site.
It came loose during a local Bullseye match. We are all novices, learning new stuff. When I tighten the mount enough to manage the recoil, the slide release binds up and the pistol malfunctions.
I do not want to drill the slide, in case I want to return to a CMP legal configuration. How about a grip mount from Brownells? Or should I buy an aftermarket slide and drill and tap a mount?
Any advice?
Thanks, Sid

What I use on my SA Loaded Parkerized 1911 is an Aimtech mount. It replaces the right grip panel and mounts with the 2 grip screws, plus 2 screws that replace the mainspring housing lower pin and the hammer pivot pin. These 2 pins hold it in alignment. I have used just the grip screwsbut it does allow the mount to tip up or down skightly under recoil.

[Bullseye]

I have to agree with Len, the Aimtech mount is one of the better no-drill mounts for the 1911. Here's what one looks like.



Bud's Gun Shop in Kentucky is currently selling them for $38 here Buds Gun Shop

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

Thanks for posting the pic to explain things better, Iid not have one available. For Bullseye accurace you definitely need to pull the safety and mainspring housing and replace the pins with the special screws. For just a litle casual plate or pin shooting I have used it with just the grip srews and it will give you a few inches of ellevation shnge at times due to the play in the screw holes. Also use the slotted head screws not the allens or torx, when you tighten them adequately the will snap off esily as there is not much material in them at the juction of the head and the shankk due to the size of the hole swaged in the screw. Broke several of them off that way and went back to the slotted ones.

[Bullseye]

I also put a drop or two of Locktite (Red 271) under the mount grip to secure it to the frame a little better. To remove the mount, a simple little twist on the rail and it breaks loose from the frame. That sealant takes the wiggle out of this mount.

R,
Bullseye