BUTTON RETAINING SCREW

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Hakaman
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BUTTON RETAINING SCREW

Postby Hakaman » Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:12 pm

I happened upon a YouTube video describing a potential problem with the Ruger LCR. It showed an issue with the button retaining screw in that it backs out unknowingly through time. The shock of firing the revolver evidently loosens it to a point where it falls out and causes other parts too fall off the gun, particularly the cylinder release button. So I went and checked my LCR and sure enough it was to the point of almost falling out of the gun. It's a good thing I came across that video otherwise it could have caused some more serious issues. I backed the screw out to take a look at it and apply some blue Loctite on it and then put it back in. Although, it appeared that it already had blue Loctite on It originally, having that blue look to it. I'll keep an eye on it from this point forward.

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ruger22
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Re: BUTTON RETAINING SCREW

Postby ruger22 » Sat Nov 18, 2017 3:18 pm

That was partly my problem when I returned my .357 LCR to Ruger. My cylinder latch pivot (what Ruger calls it) had backed out several turns, and stuck. I could not get it to turn either direction, with reasonable effort. Ruger said it was not repairable, and sent me a new gun.

I had already had trouble with a .22 LCR ratchet digging into the frame, which Ruger replaced, too. Then after the .357 issue, the replacement .22 messed up. The transfer bar and trigger return spring both broke at the same session. This being #3 problem, I told Ruger I'd had enough of LCRs. They asked what else I'd like, and I was sent the .357 SP101 I have now. I already had the .22 SP, so the .357 still made a pair for training and carry. Not needing the .357 LCR anymore, I sold it.

FWIW, my driver for that screw is a 3/32 Craftsman precision screwdriver. I filed the tip to make it thicker. Ended up that roughly .030 was the right thickness. The slot is not very deep, so the driver not being hollow ground is not so important. If I could find a ready-made 3/32 X .030 driver, I'd buy it. The shaft on bit drivers like Wheeler and Brownell's is too fat, and you can't get a straight shot at the pivot head. My two SPs have the same pivot, but hopefully I'll never need to mess with theirs.
*2 Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
*SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
*SP-101 .357 snub w/ Wolff springs
*10/22 Deluxe Sporter, unmodded!

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Hakaman
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Re: BUTTON RETAINING SCREW

Postby Hakaman » Sun Nov 19, 2017 6:19 pm

I just used a eye glasses repair kit screwdriver for mine, it seemed to work well. What bothers me is that it appeared to be blue Loctite'd originally, and that's what I used to secure it back in this time. If it comes out again I am considering Super Glue to keep it in place. Other than this issue I really like the LCR it fits my hand well and I like the trigger on it. Fellow shooter at the range I shoot at just purchased a Smith & Wesson 442 Performance Center 38 + P revolver, but I really dislike the grip and the trigger pull on it. To me it was super uncomfortable and I would never purchase that revolver because of it.

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ruger22
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Re: BUTTON RETAINING SCREW

Postby ruger22 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:47 pm

Both of my SP pivot screws are snug, but no Loctite that I could see. I moved both a little both ways to try my screwdriver fit. Glad your eyeglass driver did the trick. Narrow drivers are most always hair thin, too. For that size screw, you're really supposed to use the weaker purple Loctite, so a tiny dot of the blue should be good. I would hope the LCRs are long since debugged by now, I had the earlier models that have the lock inside the grip.
*2 Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
*SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
*SP-101 .357 snub w/ Wolff springs
*10/22 Deluxe Sporter, unmodded!


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