Problem with recently refurbished Mark II

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 10:40 pm

I recently sent my Mark II in to be refurbished. It came back looking like a new from the factory gun. All the nicks and scratches are gone and the brushed finish looks great. The original two piece bolt was replaced by the updated one piece bolt. As a part of the refurbish, they replaced the bolt assembly, bolt stop assembly, disconnector, extractor, extractor spring, firing pin, magazine disconnect spring, magazine latch, rebound spring, rebound spring support, recoil spring assembly, sear, sear spring and trigger spring. (And I thought the innards were OK.)

Note on the repair slip: "After repair, pistol was function fired 40 rounds without malfunction." Now I know why there is a shortage of .22 ammo.

The problem. I have shot off about 25 rounds of Federal bulk hollow points through the gun. I have had two "pull the trigger CLICK no BANG" malfunctions. The first shot was fired, but the case remained in the chamber. I thought that it had ejected because the gun cycled. The the gun was cocked but it didn't pick up the second round. CLICK on the spent round. Bad ammo without enough "oomph" for the bolt to eject the spent cartridge and pick up a new one?

I have never run across this before. However the action is a lot "stiffer" since the gun was refreshed.

Should I try different ammo and what is the best ammo for this gun to make sure that it is cycling correctly?

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 5:28 am

When you cycle the bolt, after the hammer is cocked, does it feel gritty as it moves back and forth?

R,
Bullseye

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 8:53 am

If grittiness not the problem...

I've had new stiffer recoil spring require some cycling for it to loosen up. I have even shot a few Hyper rounds to help loosen it up. Normally after several 100 rounds they loosen back up with the new parts.

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:09 am

Bullseye wrote:When you cycle the bolt, after the hammer is cocked, does it feel gritty as it moves back and forth?

R,
Bullseye

Hard to tell for sure, but don't think so. There is a "hesitation" about halfway back when the hammer is cocked. I don't feel it when pulling the bolt back when the hammer is not cocked.

Since the refurbish, the gun is more difficult to cock than before....and the "ears" on this new bolt are darn sharp.

Hope the gun just needs some more ammo through it. I have a bunch of the "hyper stuff" that I bought years ago. May run a few round of that through it.

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:53 am

Is this a stainless gun? If so, you could do like I did the bolt ears on a Mark III. I got a 3M sanding sponge with medium grit, and buffed those sharp edges more rounded. It's a slow process, but works without real danger of removing too much like you could with a file.

Coach1 · Post by **Coach1** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 1:48 pm

That is a big list of new internal parts. And although Ruger's test fire was successful, they likely did Not use Federal bulk HPs. I had a strange 'hitch' when cycling the bolt manually in my Mark III 22/45 for a while. That was resolved by a comprehensive field strip, cleaning and lube session. I trust you have done that already.

I suggest you try a 100 round pack of CCI min-mags to ensure adequate
cycling energy and to break-in all those new internals a bit.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Coach

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:23 am

Couldn't find any CCI Min-mags. Will have to use some Remington "Golden Bullets" or "Yellow Jackets" that I have on hand. (No comments on their quality.)

Another question: How is it possible for the trigger to reset without the empty case being ejected? Is the bolt begin blown back just far enough for the reset?

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:04 pm

How is it possible for the trigger to reset without the empty case being ejected? Is the bolt begin blown back just far enough for the reset?

Yes it's possible for that to happen. Also a bad extractor can cause it too. The brass is sticking in the chamber as the bolt comes back and the extractor is slipping over the rim. I run a VQ extractor in mine and never have a problem. It's a EDM cut from tool steel and not a stamped part like the factory part is.

I never have had much luck with Rem ammo. But for testing it should work fine. Shoot a mag or 2 of the hyper through it. If it functions it tells you the gun is just stiff and needs to loosen up.

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:24 pm

It must be the bolt not doing back far enough. The next shell is not being picked up from the magazine and really jamming stuff up.

(By the way, I'm a long time "new" member...over 7 years. I come this forum when I have problems with my Rugers. I purchased my first Ruger, a Standard pistol in the mid 1970's.)

Chopperdoc · Post by **Chopperdoc** » Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:09 pm

Can I ask what Ruger charged you for the rebuild?

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 1:34 pm

Chopperdoc wrote:Can I ask what Ruger charged you for the rebuild?

I think the total including part of the shipping was about $130. You better call customer service to be sure. It came back basically a new gun.

greener · Post by **greener** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:25 am

tguil wrote:
Chopperdoc wrote:Can I ask what Ruger charged you for the rebuild?
I think the total including part of the shipping was about $130. You better call customer service to be sure. It came back basically a new gun.

What was the resolution to your problem?

tguil · Post by **tguil** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 7:09 pm

It appears that using Remington "golden bulletins" remedied the problem.

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:14 am

tguil wrote:It appears that using Remington "golden bulletins" remedied the problem.

Now all you need to find is a steady supply.