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I just checked my SP101 and it is .007 tight. .006 is probably closer to correct.

Thanks for the Question bgreenea3. You may have given me the answer to my leading problem. We'll see what Ruger CS says.

HMMM. Maybe that's the difference???? I read that .02 and less is good. Is that right? You mean .002? Some people like that, and it would be good for a competition gun, but not very practical for most of us. Doesn't take many rounds to gunk up a .002 gap and make the cylinder bind. I'm happy with ....

Our posts crossed. Perhaps that's the problem. Seems I may have to send it back again. Strange that they would change the cylinder and not give it the correct gap.

HMMM. Maybe that's the difference???? I read that .02 and less is good. Is that right?

bgreenea3 wrote:What's the cylinder to barrel gap on you guy's LCR's? Maybe that has something to do with the dirtiness........

.013. A.014 is tight, and .013 is just snug.

I think the LCR is great. I've never had a problem with it's function. It does shoot a bit low, but I've solved that by changing my sight picture and the laser grips help, too. Now that I'm not afraid to use a wire brush on that cylinder to get the lead off, I'm very happy with it. I don't know why ...

A strange thing about the cylinder finish on mine (it may be the "Target Grey" finish). Trying to remove the lead at the back of the flutes, I finally gave up and got out my wire "toothbrush" (steel). It removed the lead and just a few strokes, but it also removed the finish. Then I just brushed the...

Trying ~ 150 rounds of Federal copper clads, I find that there is little difference in the leading. This picture of the cylinder shows what it looks like before cleaning. http://www.hmds.ws/Pics/CCClad.jpg Then I tried cleaning with a rag & Hoppe's. No good. Scraping with my fingernail removed some,...

Pics of the forcing cone and mating cylinder end. Prior to cleaning.

I'm betting a change of ammo will give a big improvement. I shot almost as many rounds, 350, but not a lot of lead stuck using the copper plate Federal. That's what I'm hoping. I have a box of Remington copper clads to try next. All of the leading has been with Federal bulk (525 rds) bare lead and ...

It would seem that diagnosing would require a variety of ammunition and controlled conditions, changing only one thing at a time. It wouldn't be so bad if that lead came off easier. I've got it looking pretty good again and almost dread messing it up again. I have some Remington copper clads to try...

Curious as to whether it is ammo problem or gun problem. Possibly another brand of ammo may make a difference. That's what I'm wondering, too. Perhaps copper plated bullets would make a difference. I'm also curious to know if other LCR 22's have similar problems. One thing I have noticed is the dif...

How about the top of the crane; is that spatter or is that disintegration of the metal like on the last one. R, Bullseye It is all lead. Using a pen knife I have gently scraped it all off and the top of the crane is fine. After discovering this, I'm certain that the original crane was OK, too. It i...

I said (above) that I had never owned a .22 revolver before this one. Memory has failed me again. I did own a Ruger Super Bearcat back in the 70's. Of course it was a SA with a non-fluted cylinder. I don't recall any leading problems with the Bearcat.

Picture? All revolvers collect residues around the forcing crane and on the outside of the cylinder to the old cyl. It's more obvious on a stainless revolver. Sometimes it doesn't clean off too easily. compare this photo of the new cylinder and crane after ~400 rounds of Blaser ammo to the old cyli...