I knew ole experience would figure this one out. Yea, must have been a double load. I load the 38's at about minimum, but not this one.How much, too much powder, eh? Wink
good job OM,
haka
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One of the reasons that I have always used the bulkier flake powders like Red Dot or Green Dot, if you do drop a double load ther is not enough room to get the bullet in as I remember and the other reason is I have a lot of it around from my shtgunning days.Hakaman wrote:I knew ole experience would figure this one out. Yea, must have been a double load. I load the 38's at about minimum, but not this one.How much, too much powder, eh? Wink
good job OM,
haka
This round rattled my S&W enough to make me look the gun over to make sure it was still ok to shoot. The normal load I was shooting was notably passive, not giving any kick what so ever, and the gun was a full lugged 6" 686. It felt like a strong magnum round going off. Since these loads were at the minimum, I wonder what the consequences of "not enough powder would cause". This incident has made me realign my reloading procedure, to add another methodical step to the process. A double load will "not" happen again (or too lite of load).do you remember when you fired it? was it stiff? lite? did the bullet impact significantly different than the others?
I don't have anything to check the velocity, but I know that is an excellent way to check load data. On Berry's website they state to load their plated bullets between LRN and FMJ bullets. This is good info, but to me, a little vague, opening the door slightly for problems. I just got back from the range after testing new loads for some 9mm, 38sp, and 45acp's, and all were very successful. I now have, for the first time, good recipes for those calibers using Win AutoComp. I think the key for these loads was a good solid taper crimp at medium loads.I reload using Barry's Plated bullets. You can use lead charts or std low to med charges. But keep the velocity below 1200fps.