VQ Trigger Overtravel screw question

[razzle]

Decided to wait on the Clark Trigger and install the VQ instead. Did not want to fit at this time. Once the pre-travel screw was adjusted to take the creep not a lot of room left fom the trigger to the frame, about 1/8". Has anyone installed the VQ and not installed the overtravel? I installed but with just a little stricking out the back the gun would never reset and most of the over travel screw was sticking out in front of the trigger.

[cadillo]

Did you install the VQ sear? If you didn't, the VQ trigger may not work at all. I don't know why, but that's what I found out with my Mark II.

Without the VQ sear, I had to reinstall the OEM trigger to get it to function with the OEM sear. It has something to do with the different geometry of the sear and hammer engagement.

[Bullseye]

If you don't have a VQ sear then there may not be enough clearance for the overtravel screw, in its present configuration. The VQ sear is shorter than an OEM sear and that makes the difference. You can shorten the overtravel screw so it doesn't stick up through the front of the trigger, or not install it at all.

R,
Bullseye

[razzle]

I installed the VQ sear. I tried to keep the new separate from the old but at one time might of mixed them up. I belive the VQ sear is installed and I shorted the over travel so the trigger is just a tad from bottoming out and the hammer still clears the sear.

Would the OEM sear work with a VQ hammer?

Trigger pull is just under 2#. Went to the range today and it shot great except that I can not get shots to move down at 10 yards. I bottomed out the rear sight and it is still shooting about 3" hight. I am also going to have to move the sight to the right because the windage had to be adjusted more than I like. Didn't really care for the V-notch sight so may be looking at something different.

[cadillo]

This reminds me a bit of a strip tease. The interesting and vital points are coming out slowly and in no particular order. The sear, trigger issue in no way affects point of impact in relation to point of aim, so it seems that someone may have replaced either the rear sight or rear leaf.

The best way I've found to do this is to first zero the weapon and then accurately measure the overall height of both the front and rear sights prior to removal. I'm guessing that you did not do this.

Based on your last post it would seem that your front sight is not tall enough. Brownell's sells several Ruger front sights, one of which will suit your application provided you are using a Ruger rear sight and rear blade.

I have a Lipsey Special 5.5 inch that came with the fiber optic front and V type rear. I installed a VQ rear and measured the height of a front sight on another 5.5 inch Ruger that sighted in OK with the VQ rear. I then installed a Ruger front that was a smidgen taller. I filed it to spec and all is well.

I'll go thru my records. Somewhere I have the formula for extrapolating how much to move the front or rear sight to achieve a desired POI change based upon sight radius, range and desired POI change. I'l post it as soon as I find it.

[cadillo]

Formula to Determine Sight Movement All Values in Inches

POI Change
Range /Sight Radius


Result Equals Required Sight Movement in inches, Front or Rear.