MKIII Hunter Target with TruGlo sights

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MicroGuy
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MKIII Hunter Target with TruGlo sights

Post by MicroGuy » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:22 pm

Just got my TruGlo sight today.

Image

I like it. The reticle's are pretty sharp, but sort of dim on one side. Like the cross hair, the left side of the horizontal line is nice and bright, but the right side of it sort of dim.

And the cross hair, to me it looks like it's rotated just a bit. Not a big issue, but I'm still going to contact them and ask them about it.

But they're sharp.

And as you can see from the target, it's consistant and accurate. (if only *I* was that accurate!). That's another target sheet of the scope being dialed in.

But it was pretty close from the get go, not much adjustment was needed, FAR better than one of those Bushnell's I had.

And the flip up's don't "wobble" as much as the one I looked at. No screw adjustment for it either (didn't think there would be). It's not an issue really. I mean, if you're shooting, you shouldn't be wobbling that much so you won't notice it.

It's just that it does wobble, feel lose, when I do move the gun, like bring it up to shoot or something.

It's not a problem, it just makes you think there's something loose, I'll get used to it.

There's just one thing.

It does come with the flip up lens protectors. Which is great, and they're tinted, another good. But they're not that clear. It's sort of like looking through the bottom of a glass coke bottle or something, slightly distorted around the outer perimeter of the lens "cap".

Now, it's only a lens protector. But it would be nice...... nice if they made them better. And you tend to lose a bit of your field of view with them down also.

Still beats having a solid lens cap that you can't see through at all, just that since they're there, the could have done it a bit better.

Control knobs were a bit stiff at first, but they're starting to loosen up some.

Over all, I like it, I think it's a pretty good scope. And I would recommend it for anybody. (but you may not like it as much as I.....)

If anybody has any questions, please feel free to ask and I'll see what I can do.

Oh yeah, I ran through several hundred rounds and it kept it's zero just fine. (that's just me all over that paper)


But dang, I LOVE this gun. It is so accurate and consistent, real pleasure to shoot!


Whoops, I have to take that back about the Ch being dimmer on one side, that's just the way I was holding the scope when I was looking at it. I used the dot or a circle to shoot with, so I didn't notice it.

But as long as the Ch (or other) is centered in the scope, it's even like it should be. Just an illusion...
Last edited by MicroGuy on Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Bullseye
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Post by Bullseye » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:29 pm

Looks nice. I haven't had the opportunity to try one of these sights, may have to give them a look. Those caps are not designed for use as a shooting aid, they're there to protect the lenses and if you have to shoot quick - you can.

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Post by MicroGuy » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:54 pm

I know you're not supposed to use them, it's just that my thinking, as long as they're there, they *could* have done a bit better job of it.

But then it would have added to the cost of the scope, etc....

Like I said, it's not a problem, just me....

You should look into them. After all the trouble I have had, and being picking etc.... if they make me happy, then that's saying something.

But then again, I'm not much of a shooter, so you will probably find more about them that isn't so good. (probably field of view for starters!!)

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Post by Bullseye » Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:05 pm

You can use the covers as see-through they're just not designed for everyday use. Once they get hauled around they'll get scratched and blemished anyway, so a high level of transparency is not necessary.

FOV is not a big concern for me as I shoot mostly at KD stationary targets now. I'll give these a good check out.

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Post by MicroGuy » Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:25 pm

Oh yeah, no option for a polarizer (at least not that I can find). It's a 42mm lens, if they had thought about it a bit, they could have made it 49mm and I could have used my camera filters. Not sure if they come in 42 or not.

Doubt I'll need one, but it might be nice for somebody else.

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Post by Bullseye » Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:54 pm

What was the exact model number of your TruGlo red dot sight?

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Post by MicroGuy » Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:05 pm

I've got the TG8030MB2.

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Post by Georgezilla » Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:47 am

Glad to hear you'er enjoying it! Once you get a VQ trigger and sear I think you will like it even more. While we are on the subject of triggers, did you know the hunter has a pre-travel adjustment? Might be something you wanna do until you get your VQ trigger (if yours is anything like mine it has a lot of pre-travel now).

I thought about about getting optics like your Truglo for my Hunter, but opted for the Matchdot which I like -- It is kinda funny to have optics on it that cost half as much as it did though :P
Does the Truglo have a lifetime warranty? If they do I may try one on my RRA when I get it, I don't wanna put anything without a good warranty on a .45.

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Post by Bullseye » Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:34 am

George,

You may have the factory overtravel screw confused as a pretravel screw. The factory's trigger overtravel screw is located in the front face of the trigger block, like the pretravel screw, but it is positioned above the trigger pivot pin through hole. This screw location is used to limit the amount of trigger rotational travel movement after the sear breaks on the hammer hook.

This picture shows the physical location of the factory trigger overtravel screw.

Image

An effective pretravel screw must be located on the front face below the trigger pivot pin through hole to operate properly.

Hope this helps.

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Post by MicroGuy » Sun Aug 19, 2007 2:44 pm

Yes, it does have a "limited" lifetime warranty. Oh, and it' s bit heavy, well, a lot I guess. But like anything, you get used it. But the difference between the Bushnell and this one is pretty striking (as far as weight).

I saw that screw and thought about adjusting after I find out exactly what's going on it.

But, for the most part, the pre-travel doesn't bother me much. I don't normally squeeze off a round starting from scratch, I take out the pre-travel manually and then take careful aim and slowly squeeze it off.

Thanks for the tip. But I'll probably do any adjustments when I do the trigger kit.

But this gun is loads of fun.

Thanks for the info Bullseye,I'll do a lot of looking and investigating before I start doing things.

mechanically I'm very good. Always built stuff with my hands and so on, my best is electronics. also know a good bit about optics (in general, not scopes per se).

My next project is a timer setup for a camera, so I can take some photo's of bullet impacts. Been wanting to build a good timer for a while, now I have a good reason.

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Post by Georgezilla » Sun Aug 19, 2007 3:28 pm

Bullseye wrote:George,

You may have the factory overtravel screw confused as a pretravel screw. The factory's trigger overtravel screw is located in the front face of the trigger block, like the pretravel screw, but it is positioned above the trigger pivot pin through hole. This screw location is used to limit the amount of trigger rotational travel movement after the sear breaks on the hammer hook.

This picture shows the physical location of the factory trigger overtravel screw.

Image

An effective pretravel screw must be located on the front face below the trigger pivot pin through hole to operate properly.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye
Thanks for the info, Bullseye. I always assumed it was pretravel :P Never did mess with it on my pistol though, I thought only the slabside competition model had them until I replaced my trigger with the VQ one.

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Post by MicroGuy » Sun Aug 19, 2007 3:44 pm

There is one minor thing with the scope though.

The flip up lens covers, there's a large tab on the top of the scope, and the lens cover has two small tabs that fit on either side of the large one, and a single small pin drives through all three to form the pivot point for the flip up lens.

The problem is that pin tends to walk out (I can't seem to get away from walking pins!).

It's not a problem, just give it a push and it's back in. Haven't had it come out enough that the lens becomes misaligned or anything.

A drop of glue on the outside may hold it in it.

It only does it on the eyeball side, not the other lens.

Just thought I'd post that

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Post by Bullseye » Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:23 am

A drop of glue or Locktite applied to the end tabs may solve the problem. Take care to just use a tiny bit so the glue doesn't wick into the large tab section or under the cap and fuse the lens cap in place. Ordinarily I'd recommend removing the pin and bending it slightly to increase friction but because the pin boss is soft plastic, all that would solve is elongating the lens cover's pin boss holes.

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Post by MicroGuy » Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:04 pm

I'm going to try that tonight, let it set when I go to bed.

Apply just a tiny bit to it, then use something small and pointed, to make sure it goes in there. Push the pin a fraction of an inch back and fourth.

I figure, if I use a very small amount, I'll be able to break it free even if it does wick up, which has been the most concern.

I'll let you know how it goes.

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Post by MicroGuy » Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:20 pm

Another thing about this sight is it doesn't mess up the balance if you mount it further back.

Due to the Weaver mounting rail supplied, you can mount it either forward of the ejection port, or basically right on top of it (as in my photo).

Without a scope, if you turn the gun upside down and use a pen or something through the trigger guard, the gun will be almost perfectly level.

With the scope mounted in the back position (as in my photo), it doesn't change this balance at all. (yeah, tiny bit).

So it does make it heavier, but it doesn't change the balance of the gun over all. Almost like those two were working together.

Just one more thing I found out about it.

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