I'm building an indoor .22 (.38 sp?) range

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:09 pm

Living in the country, I can shoot legally. However shooting outdoors creates friction with my neighbors due to noise. I have a 32x60 metal shop building so an indoor range seemed possible. Firing indoors with the doors shut should muffle the noise and keep the neighbors happy (I hope). Thinking about bullet traps and doing a little research, I decided to make up a simple trial trap.

The trap consists of a simple steel box about 20"x30" with a 10 ga. bottom and 4" 12 ga. sides. Then a 3/8 piece of plywood top fastened on with nuts. Standing the box on edge, I fired four rounds from my .22 rifle into the center of the plywood. then I removed the plywood to check the contents. Lying on the bottom was little tiny pieces of lead and wood splinters. The largest piece of lead was the base of the bullets (4) about 5/16 diameter and the thickness of a heavy piece of paper. Everything was trapped inside the box. Yesterday, I fired 20 rounds from my .22 pistol into the trrial trap. Same results. Shooting straight on into a steel plate make .22 bullets explode into tiny fragments. Shooting at an angle would probably be a different matter. But that's not how I'll be using it.

I'm now about to make a permanant trap slightly larger 24"x48" with 1/4" plate bottom and 3/16" x 4" sides. I'll mount it on end so it will stand 24" wide and 48" high on a stand with casters to make it moveable.

Photo of the trial trap.

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:44 pm

I would fill the assembly with phone books or something similar -- just to be certain.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sun May 03, 2009 6:10 pm

Finished bullet trap. On casters to make it easily moved and stored. Works very well with .22 rimfire. Spent bullets are just tiny framents captured inside the "box". Salvage the lead? Just vacuum the contents and pour into a bucket of water. Lead will sink to bottom and wood chips will float on top. Back is 1/4" plate, and sides are 3/16" plate, 4" deep. I can shoot at ranges up to about 55' inside the shop building. Untested with .38 specials.

Without plywood cover

With plywood cover and targets

Close-up showing bottom wing nuts and insides of trap.

recumbent · Post by **recumbent** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:49 pm

Nice very nice.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:17 pm

Georgezilla wrote:I would fill the assembly with phone books or something similar -- just to be certain.

I was watching (on TV) cowboy action shooting the other night. The competitors were shooting at steel silhouettes at fairly close ranges. As the bullets were striking the targets, I could see the dust kick up in a long string under the target. There were spectators as well as the competitors and no one was ducking bounce-backs. It can't happen. When lead strikes a solid plate, it splats. All the particles go in a 360 degree circle, perpendicular to the bullet path and parallel to the plate. The "trap" I made catches the fragments on the sides of the box and the plywood front contains them inside. I've fired 80 .22 rounds into that box now and all the lead is in small pieces inside the box. The largest piece of lead is about 5/16" diameter and about the thickness of a heavy peice of paper. My tests show that packing inside the box is not necessary.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:55 am

recumbent wrote:Nice very nice.

Thank you. It has many holes in the plywood already. Nice to be able to shoot at home rather than wait for good weather for a trip to the great outdoors.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu May 07, 2009 6:52 am

Looks like a good design. My only question - is the base wide enough for how tall it sits? .22's wouldn't knock it over but what about a .38 hit near the top of the trap?

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu May 07, 2009 9:14 am

Bullseye wrote:Looks like a good design. My only question - is the base wide enough for how tall it sits? .22's wouldn't knock it over but what about a .38 hit near the top of the trap?

R,
Bullseye

I was thinking that also, may have to add a little weight to the base.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Fri May 08, 2009 8:00 pm

Bullseye wrote:Looks like a good design. My only question - is the base wide enough for how tall it sits? .22's wouldn't knock it over but what about a .38 hit near the top of the trap?

R,
Bullseye

It's doubtful that it could tip over by a .38 sp. It is HEAVY. But I may never fire .38's at it. My .38 S&W "Chiefs Special" is LOUD and I don't want to ruffle the neighbors feathers. The 22/45 is loud, too, but not so much that shooting indoors with the door closed will bother them much. If I were handloading, though, I'd load light. No need for a lot of power to poke holes in paper. Shooting the 22/45 should make me more proficient with the .38, too. I'll play that one (.38 sp.) by ear.

Post by **Bullseye** » Fri May 08, 2009 8:19 pm

What kind of steel did you use for the backing plate? Was it AR400 or AR500?

Also if you do ever get concerned about bounce back or wood splintering you could always cover the face of the target plywood with some sheet 1/8th inch roofing rubber.

R,
Bullseye

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Fri May 08, 2009 9:24 pm

Bullseye wrote:What kind of steel did you use for the backing plate? Was it AR400 or AR500?

Also if you do ever get concerned about bounce back or wood splintering you could always cover the face of the target plywood with some sheet 1/8th inch roofing rubber.

R,
Bullseye

Unknown. Scrap. Probably 1018 mild steel. .22 doesn't dent it. .38 might.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat May 09, 2009 2:16 pm

Yeah if it is #1018 then it will eventually start to show wear if it takes a lot of hits. If you decide to make more, you could always go with the higher grade plate steel and that could take most anything you throw at it. A few baffles and some funnel metal at the bottom and it could be nearly self cleaning. A little collection pan mounted on the bottom to funnel into, and all the lead splatters gather themselves by gravity.

R,
Bullseye

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Sat May 09, 2009 3:28 pm

Bullseye wrote:Yeah if it is #1018 then it will eventually start to show wear if it takes a lot of hits. If you decide to make more, you could always go with the higher grade plate steel and that could take most anything you throw at it. A few baffles and some funnel metal at the bottom and it could be nearly self cleaning. A little collection pan mounted on the bottom to funnel into, and all the lead splatters gather themselves by gravity.

R,
Bullseye

Don't forget about the spinners on the wheels, Bullseye

Jack, have you tried jacketed ammo on your rig?

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sat May 09, 2009 3:44 pm

Georgezilla wrote:
Don't forget about the spinners on the wheels, Bullseye

Jack, have you tried jacketed ammo on your rig?

Not yet. Only .22 CCI Mini mags. It isn't built for anything but lead. I'd definitely want to go heavier with jacketed. If a person was casting his own, virtually all the lead could be salvaged and recast. We may try a couple of .38 specials today. A funnel arrangement would make salvage easier.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat May 09, 2009 4:51 pm

I'm glad you mentioned the wheels in jest George, it reminded me I had forgotten to suggest locking castor wheels to prevent target walking with a larger caliber.

R,
Bullseye