My 2010 project-Ruger Mark III pistol

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 8:01 am

Turns out the VQ sear is rough looking but really smooth... I guess looks can be deceiving. The shorter height of the VQ sear really seems to be what reduces the pull!! I'm well down into the 2# range with it. I still have a distinct *click* as I pull that I've got to work on. Maybe doing Bullseye's pre-travel screw installation might handle that. that's next weeks project

I'm really happy that people like VQ and BE have taken the time to provide all the services needed to help the DIY's like myself...

As a side consequence, I'm getting pretty good at this Mark III teardown thing... of course, I keep BE's teardown instruction page up on the computer..lol

Jim

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:42 pm

Is that clicking sound your hearing the disconnector resetting on the sear?

R,
Bullseye

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:49 pm

The trigger pull is right around 2#. After taking up the trigger slack, when I slowly pull the trigger there is a sudden short movement, then it stops and a normal pull continues.. kinda like pulling a double action on a S&W where you *feel* it set before it goes off..

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:56 pm

How tight was the sear on the sear pin? This almost sounds like it is moving on the pin slightly.

R,
Bullseye

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:06 pm

that seems to be ok. when I work the action with the barrel assy off, I can see the seer moving. It will move in incremental steps before the hammer falls. It feels smooth, not gritty, but jerky...

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:08 pm

It looks like I've got a full .022 hammer engagement with the sear....

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:38 pm

Who's bushing are you using? VQ, Sam, Clark.....

All but Clark will have some creep due to play between the bushing and hammer.

But a click would indicating that may be the disconnector is slipping on the sear.... Mr. Bullseye diag....

Is the disconnect pin to trigger a tight fit? None of the pins backing out of the frame are they....

Have you tried it with the VQ hammer that came in the kit?

My Original MKIII hammers had some roughness on the sear face.

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:50 pm

blue68f100 wrote:Who's bushing are you using? VQ, Sam, Clark.....

All but Clark will have some creep due to play between the bushing and hammer.

But a click would indicating that may be the disconnector is slipping on the sear.... Mr. Bullseye diag....

Is the disconnect pin to trigger a tight fit? None of the pins backing out of the frame are they....

Have you tried it with the VQ hammer that came in the kit?

My Original MKIII hammers had some roughness on the sear face.

My bushing

from BE's detailed drawings..

I probably used the wrong term. I'm familiar with the click of the disconnector resetting to the sear. It's not that.
It's probably just creep that I notice due to the low trigger weight.

What bothers me, is I'm able to slow pull and feel the different stages it goes thru. It seems like a lot of engagement, but, I guess thats necessary on a semi-auto. My experience generally is with Perazzi leaf spring triggers. and to make matters worse, I shoot an Allor release lol

I did not get the kit, just the sear.

Ahhhhgggggg... Police are at my door!! Seems the MSP have no previous record of my 1889 mfg S&W 38 safety Hammerless "new departure" that I turned my pistol sales record in for. I told them, probably no record as I found after-the-fact it didn't need to be registered and probably never was!!

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:09 pm

BE bushing is Sam's, BE supplied the drawing and gave him permission to make them if I recall.

My MKIII had a very long through even with the Clark Bushing. I was able to remove the creep/long throw. I could stage mine almost 10 time before it would go off, drove me nuts. Since it was 5x longer than any other handgun I have. My engagement is around 0.012-0.015", with a trigger pull in the 1# range. Very Very Light........ You may have some roughness in the hammer sear face, did you touch it lightly with a stone? I could see machining marks on mine. Not any more, fixed that.

Shooters who have fired mine puts it in with a trigger job on S&W 41's..... I'm hoping to rent the 41 at the indoor range this tuesday to have a first hand compairison.

Send me an email if your interested in knowing how to shorten the long stroke. I'm not going to post it, because it it way too easy to go over board and have a full auto gun.

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:12 pm

I've got some macro photo's of the factory v. VQ sear I'll post in a minute. I think my problem is with the angles on the sear. The factory hammer has a very sharp edge. It slides freely across the factory sear. On the VQ, it's life a knife edge dragging on steel.....

jim

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:15 pm

Sounds like the VQ sear may need some polishing with 4000+grit....

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:28 pm

These are 1:1 macro photo's of the factory and VQ sears. click on them to enlarge.

Factory sear on right.

Sorry about the hair, I didn't notice it when I took the pic...

factory sear on top.

Best I can tell, they are the same basic sear, but, the VQ has a negative angle that the knife edge of the hammer is grating on.

I've since polished the VQ sear to clean up the tool marks, but, I don't want to get too far till my adapter for my Series 1 arrives. I can only polish parallel to the sear edge right now and I think the trigger is dragging the parallel edges...

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:44 pm

Polishing the sear should clean it up, by remove all machining marks. May need to break the sharp edge on the hammer, would not take much to knock the edge off. The sear must also have a clean edge.

With the loose fitting bushing in my MKIII it actually broke the edge down on the factory sear. I Wish I had taken some photos to show how much damage it did. With these parts being very hard and rolling off since the hammer was cocked (bushing loose and mag parts influnce, pin) just chipped the edge of the sear. In order to get a clean break the edges on both the hammer and sear must be sharp and clean. From what I see you may be fighting the same problem I had. It can be fixed but it takes some effort to do it right.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:08 pm

Your VQ sear is not that good, lots of ragged edges. When you get your Ruger adapter for the PC1 then you can clean it up better. Put a slight secondary angle on that sear and you will like the break a lot better. If you have a PC2 then you can take the knife edge off of the hammer hook - don't free-hand it. Be careful Ruger hammers are very sensitive to change and changing the hammer angle will require a new hammer. A few strokes with the hard Arkansas will take the knife edge off that hook and give a much smoother trigger pull.

R,
Bullseye

perazzi · Post by **perazzi** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 3:45 pm

Bullseye wrote:Your VQ sear is not that good, lots of ragged edges. When you get your Ruger adapter for the PC1 then you can clean it up better. Put a slight secondary angle on that sear and you will like the break a lot better. If you have a PC2 then you can take the knife edge off of the hammer hook - don't free-hand it. Be careful Ruger hammers are very sensitive to change and changing the hammer angle will require a new hammer. A few strokes with the hard Arkansas will take the knife edge off that hook and give a much smoother trigger pull.

R,
Bullseye

I think I'll post a pic of me sitting, waiting, by the mailbox..