Ruger 10/22 modifications

[Coach1]

I know y'all have done some mods to your 10/22 rifles but my forum searches came up with slim to none of interest. I am looking to tinker with the one my dad left for me. I want to keep the overall aesthetic of the gun the same. So I have no intention of turning it into an AR style plinker.

I think I will start really simple... like an auto bolt release (to allow for 1 hand bolt release), a bolt buffer and an extension for the mag release.

1. I think the bolt release mod is something I can do with a dremel tool and some patience. Any downside to this mod?

2. The bolt buffer is just a simple replacement of the steel pin... even I can do that. But the effect seems worth the effort and the few dollars investment.

3. Mag release extension. The factory original is a pain - IMO. Which manufacturer is preferred?. There are many styles.. any recommendations? Does it work OK with a 25 round "banana" mag?

Any and all feedback is welcome. Pile on!

[greener]

Depends on how much tinkering you want to do.

Rimfire Sport & Custom has a 10/22 accessory pack that has he bolt release, buffer and extended mag release for $25.
http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.m ... y_Code=R1A

I haven't gotten a round-tuit with the bolt release on mine.

Other things to do:
1. VQ hammer or do some stoning on your hammer to lighten up the trigger.
2. Look at BAOM's bedding. Looks easy and he gets good results.
3. I like the Tundra thumbhole stock.
4. An easy upgrade is a target barrel either a .920 or a tapered barrel.

I like my 10/22 with the Fajen target stock, .920 Green Mountain Target barrel and some work on lightening the trigger.

I bought a $100 10/22 and put a spare barrel on it and a Tundra stock. Still need to work on bedding the barrel or just replacing it.

These things are erector sets. You can do nothing or go stark raving wild. It's all fun.

[Bullseye]

An auto bolt release mod is easy to accomplish. You just need to remove the bolt release and then file or grind the heart shaped slot until you have a slight curve to the top of the slot. Basically you're just removing the center between the two slots. You'll need a slight curve to the shape to facilitate the release action so be prepared to need to reassemble and take down the trigger a few times to get it right. You should be able to just pull back the bolt and then let it fly to close the mechanism. A down side can be if you strike the butt of the stock on the ground that may be enough force to cause the bolt to close. Here is a picture from RFC to help with where to file the slot. http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showth ... adid=30867

Another simple mod is adding a nylon bolt stop. You can go down to the local hardware store and purchase a 1/4"X3" nylon bolt (a 3 1/2" long bolt is even better if you can find it). You are going to cut the shank end off into 1 1/4" long part for your bolt stop. A 3 1/2" long bolt will leave you with enough material for two bolt stops out of one nylon bolt. They are cheap enough so buy a few and make yourself several stops.

I don't recommend stoning the hammer unless you have the proper stones and fixtures - A Power Custom PC-2 fixture with a Ruger adapter is the right one for 10/22 hammers. The PC-2 allows the stone to travel cross ways instead of long ways like the PC-1 does. Generally you are just reducing the engagement angle by a few degrees (Less than 4° for most hammers) this is not something to free-hand.

Some of the newer 10/22's have the barrels glued into the receivers so you may have to press out the barrel after removing the "V" block, if you decide to change it.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

[greener]

Gluing the barrels in? Sounds like the price of used 10/22's with unglued barrels just went up.

A DIY hammer fix does have a bunch of downsides unless you have the equipment. But if you botch it, VQ makes a really nice replacement. At least that was my theory.

[Coach1]

Thanks for the feedback and options, guys.

I think I will defer any hammer polishing work. If I decide to lighten the trigger pull I will likely choose the VQ option. That way I can always swap the factory parts back if I need to restore to Ruger original components.

I stopped by my favorite LGS on Saturday to pay on my M&P 15-22P layaway. The owner said he no longer carries 10/22 mod bits and pieces but did give me a polymer bolt stop - for free. I know it is a cheap thing but I appreciated the gesture and consideration.

I researched the extended magazine release choices. I learned that modern 10/22's now have a stubby polymer extended release. I checked out Amazon, Brownells and Midway's selections. The cheaper ones are plastic / polymer and the pricier ones are machined aluminum. I decided on an aluminum one from PFI (Professional Firearms Instruction, LLC). They are based in Utah and this extended mag release is their first branded product. Although this is on the high side of the price range, I liked the look of it and the opportunity to support a small US company. Here is a link if you want to check it out.
http://www.firearmsprostore.com/pfiexte ... rifle.aspx

[bearandoldman]

That is an awful lot of money for something that does no contribute a thing to accuracy or operation, in my opinion. My LGS does the trigger on all of my guns, and he does a great job, I must say,

[greener]

That is an awful lot of money for something that does no contribute a thing to accuracy or operation, in my opinion. My LGS does the trigger on all of my guns, and he does a great job, I must say,

There are times that I find myself futzing around with the mag release and they sound awfully attractive. So far I've gotten over it. But after the next outing I could be thanking coach for the link. Who knows.

[Bullseye]

Shooter's Ridge has a magazine release that you pull toward you to drop the magazine. http://www.shootersridge.com/products/1 ... lease.aspx They're inexpensive, extended, and made of polymer, this is good thing if you have a plastic trigger housing in your 10/22. Midway also carries these releases if you desire to tack one onto another order.

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

Some of the newer 10/22's have the barrels glued into the receivers so you may have to press out the barrel after removing the "V" block, if you decide to change it.

R,
Bullseye

Did not believe this until I just experienced one myself. Just bought another 10/22 because I really needed one. Recently my shooting bud expressed the fact that he needed a backup gun for his S&W 41, well I happened to have 2 MarkII 22/45 with the 5-1/2 inch barrel and Techteach grips, he shot one of them and he liked it. Really did not need 2 guns the same identically so, sold him one for a lot less than a MarkIIIRP would have cost him. Had to do something with that gun money so bought a Talo Classic III, a really nice French walnut checkered French Walnut Schanbel forend stock. Pictures and a range report will be posted soon.
Was going to remove the barrel to clean from the breech but a few good hits with a soft hammer did not move it so I did a clean from the muzzle with a bore guide and went on my way.

[Bullseye]

To remove the barrel in the new style 10/22's (glued) you can use a tool like this one. http://www.eabco.com/Accutech_10_22_Barrel_Pusher.html

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

To remove the barrel in the new style 10/22's (glued) you can use a tool like this one. http://www.eabco.com/Accutech_10_22_Barrel_Pusher.html

R,
Bullseye

I believe it will work fine without removing the barrel

[Bullseye]

Some folks prefer to drill a cleaning rod hole in the back side of the 10/22's receiver to clean from the chamber side of the rifle. The hole makes repeated removing of the barrel unnecessary for cleaning. You do still have to remove the receiver assembly from the stock and then take out the bolt for cleaning. One can use an inexpensive brass muzzle guide for the receiver cleaning hole to protect the nylon coating on the cleaning rod.

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

Some folks prefer to drill a cleaning rod hole in the back side of the 10/22's receiver to clean from the chamber side of the rifle. The hole makes repeated removing of the barrel unnecessary for cleaning. You do still have to remove the receiver assembly from the stock and then take out the bolt for cleaning. One can use an inexpensive brass muzzle guide for the receiver cleaning hole to protect the nylon coating on the cleaning rod.

R,
Bullseye

Don't clean that often. only if the group looks like it was shot with a short barrel riot gun.

[ruger22]

I made some nylon bolt stops, and have otherwise left my 10/22 stock.

I do think the current extended mag release is an improvement on what Ruger used to have, on a 10/22 I had years ago. The aftermarket ones that extend around the trigger guard look too easy to bump unintentionally.

The factory bolt lock/release seems fine to me, I guess simply because I didn't change it out, I got used it.

I think some people are too quick to mod a gun. They take it out of the box, and do some modding before they even shoot one round. They might be surprised if they shot a few, and saw how nice the stock gun is!

[Bullseye]

My favorite is the auto-bolt mod. I like being able to close the bolt using just one hand. Second would be the nylon bolt stops.

R,
Bullseye