New member here and my first post. I'm going to get a new Mark III Hunter soon. All the Rugers I've ever had over the last 50 years (old standard model, Blackhawk, Super Blackhawk) have always needed trigger work, including shortening the sear engagement. I don't think I can live with 1/16" engagement that my old Rugers have had. Hopefully, the newer target model Mark III's have a light, crisp, creepless let off, but I would need to see (feel) it to believe it.
There seems to be a wealth of info here and it's much appreciated. I have not seen any "how to" on sear engagement modification. I did see after market sears and triggers are available, but I've always done my own with good results. Any info/comment on sear engagement modication would be appreciated.
Again, thanks for the wealth of information on this web site.
Rev
Sear engagement?
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Welcome to Guntalk-online Rev!
I do not have control of the gunsmithing skills of a user of the information I post possesses. Therefore I do not post information that could be used by someone who might endanger themselves by attempting a repair or alteration beyond their knowledge/capabilities. I'm not saying that you or anyone else would attempt a repair beyond their skill level, but those who've been properly trained on hammer and sear work do not have to ask this kind of question. This is why I recommend that people use the available commercial replacements instead of attempting this kind of work by themselves.
It's a litigious world.
R,
Bullseye
I do not have control of the gunsmithing skills of a user of the information I post possesses. Therefore I do not post information that could be used by someone who might endanger themselves by attempting a repair or alteration beyond their knowledge/capabilities. I'm not saying that you or anyone else would attempt a repair beyond their skill level, but those who've been properly trained on hammer and sear work do not have to ask this kind of question. This is why I recommend that people use the available commercial replacements instead of attempting this kind of work by themselves.
It's a litigious world.
R,
Bullseye
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marlin1881
- New member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:09 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
Bullseye is correct in that there are different levels of sear engagement understanding required, for varying expectations on how the trigger should perform. The areas I define for my triggers are: 1) overtravel; 2) pretravel; 3) sear surface polish; 4) sear engagement measurement; 5) sear engagement angle; and 6) sear enagement force (hammer spring power). Number 3 is generally the first item I do, followed by #4, and only altering #5 for 90 degree fit. #1 and #2 can now be adjusted, and I usually don't alter #6 to a lighter spring, as I'm a bigger fan of fast lock-time for shooting accurately.
For bullseye shooting with a Mark II, having a well-defined trigger according to competition expectations and rules, is SOOOooo nice to work with. It's honestly not easy to accomplish, but very rewarding in taking the time to do it right. I have a set of ceramic stones that I use for trigger work, as I've found they produce a mirror polished surface. I'm not sure where they originated from, but they were some "scrap" parts left over from a technology company's silicone wafer lab. They've got an aluminum backing for strength, and a perfect 90 degree side.
I won't shoot a used gun when I find out that someone has "lightened the trigger", "tweaked it and now the trigger is so crisp it doesn't even move", or "swapped out all the springs for lighter ones". Often times I find that these guns are completely unreliable and I end up going to the manufacturer for new replacement parts. You also have to be careful in taking down the factory surface, as some metals are only hard on the surface, and quite soft in the core.
Be careful out there, and REALLY understand what you are trying to accomplish, and that you have the understanding of the mechanics of the entire trigger system and related parts.
Marlin
For bullseye shooting with a Mark II, having a well-defined trigger according to competition expectations and rules, is SOOOooo nice to work with. It's honestly not easy to accomplish, but very rewarding in taking the time to do it right. I have a set of ceramic stones that I use for trigger work, as I've found they produce a mirror polished surface. I'm not sure where they originated from, but they were some "scrap" parts left over from a technology company's silicone wafer lab. They've got an aluminum backing for strength, and a perfect 90 degree side.
I won't shoot a used gun when I find out that someone has "lightened the trigger", "tweaked it and now the trigger is so crisp it doesn't even move", or "swapped out all the springs for lighter ones". Often times I find that these guns are completely unreliable and I end up going to the manufacturer for new replacement parts. You also have to be careful in taking down the factory surface, as some metals are only hard on the surface, and quite soft in the core.
Be careful out there, and REALLY understand what you are trying to accomplish, and that you have the understanding of the mechanics of the entire trigger system and related parts.
Marlin