I shoot at an outdoor range where the firing line is shaded. This means that on most days, the target area is much brighter than the line. I feel like this is giving me some trouble focusing on the front sight, because of the glare from the target area.
I would like some sunglasses solution that darkens the target area, but not my front sights. I figure this is a common situation and thought I'd see what others suggest. Many of the shooters in my club use red dot, so I'm not sure how helpful their suggestions would be.
Other than trial and error with yellow and gray glasses, is there any common ways of dealing with a shaded firing line?
Lighting issue
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Not really, shooting iron sights from a covered area is challenging for everyone.
A red dot sight is illuminated and therefore does not depend on ambient light for a good sight picture. But sometimes the target area can be so bright that it washes out the dot or you have to turn the LED's intensity way up. That is when you use a polarizing filter on your dot scope. Adjusting the two lenses allows for the target brightness to be dialed down and the dot intensity set at a good level, as to not overdrive the LED and distort the dot's shape.
If you go with sunglasses, then you further decrease the available light for your iron sights under the covered shelter. I found that I don't concentrate on the sights as much as the white lines in-between the blades. When the target is bright, the lines on either side of the front sight really stand out. If I keep those lines razor sharp, then my sights are in focus even though they are in a silhouetted form. I don't have to see the blade details to know I'm focused back at my front sight instead of down range on the target, the sharply detailed white lines tell me that I'm focused properly.
That's my trick for shooting out from under cover, keep the white lines sharp and clear. It's a lot of work and that keeps me from peeking down at the target in the middle of a string.
R,
Bullseye
A red dot sight is illuminated and therefore does not depend on ambient light for a good sight picture. But sometimes the target area can be so bright that it washes out the dot or you have to turn the LED's intensity way up. That is when you use a polarizing filter on your dot scope. Adjusting the two lenses allows for the target brightness to be dialed down and the dot intensity set at a good level, as to not overdrive the LED and distort the dot's shape.
If you go with sunglasses, then you further decrease the available light for your iron sights under the covered shelter. I found that I don't concentrate on the sights as much as the white lines in-between the blades. When the target is bright, the lines on either side of the front sight really stand out. If I keep those lines razor sharp, then my sights are in focus even though they are in a silhouetted form. I don't have to see the blade details to know I'm focused back at my front sight instead of down range on the target, the sharply detailed white lines tell me that I'm focused properly.
That's my trick for shooting out from under cover, keep the white lines sharp and clear. It's a lot of work and that keeps me from peeking down at the target in the middle of a string.
R,
Bullseye
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melchloboo
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:31 am
Yes, I find your approach very difficult, but I'll keep trying. The character I pasted onto the front sight works well, its just a matter of trial and error with different sun glasses. I find yellow works best in low light, and I find a very light tinted grey that works well when it is very bright downrange but shaded. Ideally a pair with a shaded upper and clear lower would be perfect, sort of like some car windshields. Maybe I will just make my own.