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Lead Free ?

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:11 am
by Hakaman
I have been reloading for only about 5 months now, and have used only lead bullets to this point. I also have had both of my revolvers worked on by a gunsmith to accept the lead shooting better. He put in a 11 deg forcing cone and reamed out the cylinders to accept the ammo easier (trigger job, front sight upgrade, crown work, and timing). I still get some leading, but not as bad. I have a couple of questions to ask you professionals:
1) If you reload, do you use lead or jacketed bullets?
2) What is the easiest/best way to clean lead from the barrel? Lead solvents? Cleaning brushes? etc

Thanks, Glockalong wants to be lead free.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:36 pm
by blue68f100
I have moved away from lead on my reloads. The indoor range where I shoot do not allow them. I shoot Rainer Range Safe, Barry's Plated, and Precision Delta. Precision Delta are not plated bullets, std copper jacket. Normally if you keep your velocity low <1200 leading is not bad. On 45's <800. You also want to use slow burning powders, hotter ones cause more leading.

As far as removing lead there are several ways. I use Hopper's #9, Lead Away cloth and foam bore cleaner.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:12 pm
by Downeaster
99% of my reloads are cast lead. Watching hardness (harder is better) and velocity (slower is better) you can minimize leading for target loads, Firelapping the bore will help as well. (I can expand on the firelapping if desired, or point you to links).

For pistols/revolvers, a Lewis Lead Remover is the bomb for cleaning leaded rifling, as far as I'm concerned. Basically, it's a hard rubber "plug" that with replaceable brass screens. The plug and screen are available for various calibers. Tighten the knurled nut on the end of the plug to expand it to a tight fit in the bore and it forces the brass screen into the rifling. 3-4 passes will remove the toughest leading.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=1965 ... 362d333735 Catalog pictures here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP69SZDwbjw Video of use here.

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:45 pm
by Hakaman
Thanks for yer replies, I purchaced the Lewis Lead cleaner.
GA

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:45 pm
by Hakaman
I got the Lewis lead cleaning kit today, but didn't have to use it. I tried the method I found in another forum, listed below, and it seemed to work. My leading wasn't too heavy though, and have yet to try it on a heavy condition. It mentions "not" to use it on blued finishes, but I did use on my Taurus PT1911 barrel and my S&W 686-6" barrel, successfully. I am careful with revolvers not to get it anywhere but inside the barrel. I plug the breech end with a couple tightly wadded up patches, fill the barrel up with the mixture, set it upright, and wait 20-30 mins, and clean with a patch or brush. Removable barrels are just submerged in the liquid and let sit for 30 mins. Seems to work good.

What I have used for years is White vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mixed 50/50. A vase works great as a holder for your barrel. Totally immerse the barrel and watch it bubble. After about 20 minutes, run a patch through and you are done. You will end up with a sludge on the patch. I usually use a degreaser and then oil as you normally do. No rough stuff needed. Just be cautious and don't get the stuff on blueing. I had a compensator with poor bluing on it and now it is a wonderful case hardened look to it.
GA