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To add to our trigger discussion, after shooting this trigger I do like it, it's crisp and at 2lbs 10 oz it's a dream break but I don't like its travel, it feels like a pseudo 2 stage with the "upper pressure" of the hammer movement on top of it. I will either adjust this travel out or send it back.

I will start off by saying that I still like the Hipertouch, quite a lot, but its pre-travel I don't care for, at all. Also, I was not able to remove it by adjustment, as a matter of fact it became more gritty with the set screw, if that's even possible. So, I removed the Hipertouch and installed my 3lb 11oz "15 minute mod" trigger, and adjusted it with the set screw to shorten pre-travel. I absolutely love the results so I'm sticking to this solution after all as it breaks cleanly with almost imperceptible pre-travel.

Thanks for keeping everyone up to date on this product. Sometimes new things don't always live up to their sales hype claims.

R,
Bullseye

I've found that triggers are kind of like shoes. the shoes that feel good to my feet won't nessecarily be right for the next guy.

what I like in a trigger might depend on the pupose for the gun, target, hunting or fighting. target work usually will require a light pull with very little take up or overtravel, hunting arms should be a bit stiffer especiall if used in cold climates when your digits are numb, fighting guns should have a bit more take up and a decent enough pull (but not glock NY trigger heavy !) so when your adrenaline is up you are less likely to pull when you don't mean to. all in all it is more important to be crisp and smooth than a light pull weight.... just my opinion on that.

bg, great analogy on shoes=triggers, exactly right. For example, the 2 stage trigger a K31 comes with, well used, in my opinion is the ultimate trigger, and I've shot many a rifles. I just love its smooth, repeatable 1st stage feedback, and precise 2nd stage crisp break, each and every time. IMHO there's no longer the workmanship and level of needed detail being applied in today's manufacturing. It seems "profit over all" is the motto of today and the AR's trigger group reflects that fact.

All true! This is one reason why the pull limit weight of service rifle triggers are as high as they are - to prevent negligent discharges out on the range. A clean trigger break is essential. (And yet they still happen from time to time) Anyone can adapt to the pull weight with a little bit of practice on initial pressure. What isn't desired is an unintended discharge - I say this over negligent because I mean the person is intending to fire the weapon by placing their finger on the trigger but it discharges before they expect in this description. This can be a catastrophic event, especially if you're on duty or in the field, and the gun is discharged before it is completely ready.

R,
Bullseye

I'd like to add that after yesterday's shooting my groups have perceptibly and consistently shrunken so I am indeed happy with my new Palmetto build, as it shoots.

100 yard target with my Zmax/Varget reloads.


This is the metal target I fabricated today for my 165 yards range. Note how much harder the FMJ projectiles hit at center & right. The lower 4 to the right are my Sierras 60gr HP reloads, 3 shots just about on top of each other. The rifle obviously likes them a lot. The lighter dents to the center left are form 62gr tracers. It seems the heavier loads like better distances than 100 yards to stabilize.

I know I'm reviving an old thread.... but I finally mostly finished my ar15.... test fire and optic/sights to go. I learned a lot on the rifle's function and had a good time building it. I learned that an upper vice block is necessary, ... and I think it's better to make what you want than buy it off the shelf.... I may do another eventually.



Parts.....



Should have used a upper vice block I learned the hard way.. I had to do some tweaking after bending the ejection port..... got it back in shape and moving smooth.... oops.



Yankee hill machine. Gas block installed



The barrel nut broke out torquing it down but the handguard still threaded on just fine so no problem. ...



YHM phantom comp installed. ..



Nordic components free float tube. Threaded on nice after 3 miles of threading.... I like the feel of it is fairly thin and light. The front sight is a UT greener gave me. Not sure if it's going to stay or what I'm doing for optic/sights yet. ...

Looks good. The UTG sight may be too low for that rail. One way to find out.
It will always shoot with a red dot or a dollar 2.98 Wallyworld scope.

Time to go shooting if your hand is up to it.

Looking good. Those spanner holes were awful close to the threads. Right tool for the job always make it easier. One of the these days I may try my luck at building one. I would be a 458SOCM if I did. My main use would be for hogs. I've seen 80% receiver I could pick up cheap and finish the machining with my end mill.

Shooting or a bore sight will tell you if your sights are right.

greener wrote:Looks good. The UTG sight may be too low for that rail. One way to find out.
It will always shoot with a red dot or a dollar 2.98 Wallyworld scope.

Time to go shooting if your hand is up to it.

The UTG sight is probably the right height for your rail configuration. My DPMS front sight rail is lower than the rear sight rail so I had to get the taller version.

100 yard target. I mounted a 3-9× scope and it works nicely...

Looking good

Very nice, bg! It came out really great, good job. Yeah, the upper vise block certainly helps. The Wheeler Engineering one is my favorite because it comes with a BCG dummy that has an extendable rod which allows you to quickly check for gas tube alignment.

This is what I ended up with for my first AR build:



Building your own is great. Like you said, you get to learn so much. The only negative is if something goes wrong, it's on you to figure it out and fix it, but that's just another opportunity to learn more.

Nice looking rifle.

When something goes wrong, you have to blame the parts, not the gunsmith.