Looking for USPCA Gun. XD? Glock? What?

frank · Post by **frank** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:26 pm

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death, but I'm looking to get a home defense weapon useful for stock competition. Probably a 9.

Let her rip guys! Stand up and be counted!

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:15 pm

Well Frank, you asked for it! This is a gun I salavate over whenever I look at it.
http://www.stiguns.com/guns/Trojan6/Trojan6.html
Haka
ps.......You didn't give any price barriers!

DancesWithSquirrels · Post by **DancesWithSquirrels** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:48 am

Although I am not a personal fan of them there are more Glocks shot in production division than anything else according to what I've read. I don't shoot USPSA myself although I might try some matches this summer. Our local club holds IDPA matches so that is what I shoot. As for guns I'm a big fan of Sig. If you are looking for a 9 MM get yourself a P226 or P229 if Sig meets your fancy. I have a P226 in 9 MM and a P220 in .45 ACP. Bother guns have proven to be extremely reliable and accurate. The knock on these guns is the double action first shot followed by single action after that. Some people can't or don't want to adapt to the transition between DA and SA.

DWS

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:50 am

DWS, I guess I am one of those guys, just a 1911 kind of guy. Yes I do own some DA revolvers and can shoot them DA with no problem, my carry backup is an KelTec P3AT, DA only. Not meant for target work but it will get the job done in DS mode, remember your quickest reload is a second gun. Primary carry is a SA Micro Compact. Us old guys just like 1911's, growing up during WWII, was 9 when they bombed Pearl, 4 guns were always in my mind the 1911. the Garand the carbine and the Thompson. Sure wish I could afford to own and feed a Thompson. During the war they built a lot of the carbines not 6 blocks from where I now live.

Hi Ball · Post by **Hi Ball** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:17 pm

Frank, I have both the Sigs and the GLOCKS with a touch of KIMBER just for added spice!

The Sigs are very high quailty, mine is the P-229 .357-Sig, P-226 .40cal.

The Glocks are like energizer bunny's, they go go go with no problems and last a lifetime of your firing ok. I have them in the 9mm, 10mm and 40 Smith & Wesson.

I personally believe the Glocks have the better trigger for a stock gun! The rest is up to your taste. The Sig has that 1st round double action, that is very hard to put on target and score a bullseye. It has a 10-lb trigger pull and the 2nd shot almost always will though you off a little bit until your become real accustomed to shooting the pistol. No big deal after 500 rounds or so.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 2:35 pm

My carry gun is a Sig P229 - 9mm. It's only about 9mo old. The factory triggers need work to make them smooth. Sig is using MIM parts for the hammer which is very rough. Some have reported the DA pull >12 lbs. Bruce Gray of Gray Guns Inc did the trigger action on mine. Since mine is for carry he did not go over board. My DA trigger is now just under 9# with the SA ~3lbs. The SRT is a very good sweet action for rapid firing, reduces the travel distance needed to reset the trigger for the SA. ~50% less when compared to the std trigger. These guns are built like a tank, I don't ever see me wearing one out.

There was a 228 (stamped metal slide) that went over 200,000 rounds before a failure. This was a gun used at a mil training facility, shot daily. The failure indicated that the roll pins were not replaced every 5k rounds. The newer guns with SS slides do not have this problem.

It takes a little practice to learn how to shoot in DA. I have done enough DA only shots that my fist shot is as good if not better than the 2nd SA shot. The hardest part is finding what grip and trigger gives you the correct position on the trigger of the DA to be right. I ended up with a Short reach trigger and Hogue Rubber grips which has a shorter back strap when compared to std factory. The 2 together shorten the trigger reach almost 1/4".

I now how and what needs polishing to smooth them out. GGI sells a kit that will lower the trigger pull. There is another person i know that can change the mechanical leverage of the trigger to lower the trigger pull, it works well with out changing any springs.

Sigs are well built and very accurate right out of the box, most will hold a 3" group at 50 yrds. Better than I can shoot. My best it 2" at 15yrds.

The 226 has a 1/2" longer barrel over the 229.

Hi Ball · Post by **Hi Ball** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:35 pm

Blue there have been tests on Glocks that went over 250,000 rounds! Just food for thought OK.

Now lets get back to the "Carry Gun" issue of Hakaman shall we. The 1911 was NOT built for fast out of the holster use, draw and fire. It was in fact designed for up close and personall hand to hand combat type shooting. Gentleman, that means less than 30 feet in the trenches during World War 1....Fact.

The 1911 must be carried at locked and cocked position and then one has to remember to SWEEP off that safety or your in big trouble gents. Unless your some kind of Cowboy, who is going to cock the hammer back as he points the pistol.........Good Luck!!!

The Glock on the other hand, has NO safety's to sweep off or "decocking lever's " to release like those Sigs do. It has NO 10-Pound trigger pull on the first shot either. Fella's before you blow the horn, I own several Sigs......P- 220, P-229, P-226, P-239, P-232. As well as 3 Kimber 45acp, one a carry type and one a plane jane, the 3rd a target pistol in stainles.

However, if I am going to put my butt on the line, I want total RELIABILITY and that spells GLOCK to this country boy. We have indeed timed my drawing and shooting on target with some of the above pistols and I do draw and fire, hitting the target faster with the GLOCK 27 and 29 models.