Santa's "carry"

greener · Post by **greener** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:30 pm

bearandoldman wrote: Th trigger on my Kel Tec hs a long trave but you can feel it fairly well but not as good as the doubl action pull on good S&W revolver.

I work real hard at remembering not to play with the trigger when I have the gun in my pocket.

The trigger on my S&W 442 is pretty smooth, but it also pretty heavy. You don't pull that trigger by accident. Took a box or so of ammo before I adjusted to the trigger.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:03 am

greener wrote:
bearandoldman wrote: Th trigger on my Kel Tec hs a long trave but you can feel it fairly well but not as good as the doubl action pull on good S&W revolver.
I work real hard at remembering not to play with the trigger when I have the gun in my pocket.

The trigger on my S&W 442 is pretty smooth, but it also pretty heavy. You don't pull that trigger by accident. Took a box or so of ammo before I adjusted to the trigger.

As well you should, these things are not toys and can and will hurt you or someone else if handled carelessly.
S&W has the best trigger of any double action revolver that I have ever used. Recently shot one at the club that belonged to a friend, it was one of those Jerry Miculek models and the trigger was great. You can really feel when the double action take up and hammer cocking is done and it is ready to go single action. If you slow fire the KelTec you cna pretty much feel when it has the hammer cocked and is ready to go also, but not as smooth as a Smith.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 12:50 pm

I think 'Moses' designed a simpler "assembly" than 'Bill'...

the photo-time-stamps are actual and include two "do-overs"
to get the disconnector+sear+spring correct...
I wasn't racing the clock, just trying to be systematic...
I have some more practice to do...
-- toy

Go Mark Done

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:33 pm

toyfj40 wrote:I think 'Moses' designed a simpler "assembly" than 'Bill'...

the photo-time-stamps are actual and include two "do-overs"
to get the disconnector+sear+spring correct...
I wasn't racing the clock, just trying to be systematic...
I have some more practice to do...
-- toy

Wow, decent tolls and everything, almost looks as if you know what you are doing. I got all kinds of tools and used to know how to use them on Yamaha products and all kinds of power equipment from my service tech days. I take my guns apart only if they are really broke, because if I took it that far apart it probably would be really broke and need someone wqho knew how to fix it properly put it back together, luckily they do not need to be fixed very often as mine just keep on running.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:10 pm

got the replacement "spring plug" to avoid the 'whistling in the wind'
of the one with a hole in it...

got latest-version of the same-grips as on my Original-(center)Firearm / Cmdr,
the current-grips have a "medallion" and I used HexScrews.
I'll get a set of Hex for the Cmdr, too.

not shown: installed recoil spring buffers, they're a pretty "boy" blue color.

and some Real-Man-Mags !!!

(not pearl handles, but) Gen.Patton... move over!!
-- toy

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:25 pm

Toy, them guns look good, they look just like mine, finish worn off on the front of the slide. All my guns have the Hogue grips with the finger grooves in the front, I like them very much. I use a Shok Buff in my full size gun the short barrel guns do not have enough travel to use them and function properly. Be careful with them Allen head grip screws I was using them to mount my Aimtech red dot mount on my full size and they kept breaking off right under the head, after looking st them closely I saw there was very little wall thickness between the screw and the Allen hex. So, I went back to the slotted heads. On my full size gun I also use a small radius firing pin stop to slow the slid down on the way back and reduce muzzle jump and a 14#spring to reduce muzzle dip on return to battery. The small radius was JMB's original design but the Army had him change to a larger radius to make hand cocking it easier, it changes the leverage on the hammer making the slide slow down a little.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:39 pm

Thanks for the experience/ideas... Ye Olde Pharte...

the Cmdr is not actually "worn", it's an anomaly of taking the
photo directly over the two... it was a bright, but overcast late aft
and the darker-looking area along the middle of the Cmdr-slide
is actually a shadow/reflection of my Punkin'head looking down.

Yes, there is "a little" BlueWear... but not much.
The Cmdr was aquired back when that Damocrit before RReagan was in office...
and now the 1911a1 ... so, I guess "Damocrits" are good for .45 sales.

I'll be on the lookout for weak HexHeads...
-- toy

I also got a LEWilson .45 Case Gage
to watch my Reloads a bit closer.
http://www.LEWilson.com/casegage.html (from MidWay)

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:51 pm

Reread my new title that Bullseye gave me when I made 1,000. Don't really ever have to trim .45 cases they do not stretch like the higher pressure rifle cases. As far as OAL and crimp size. I crimp to .469 or .468 but use the barrel on my full size as a gage. That chamber is tighter than the other guns and what will work in that one will work in any one. My hand load use 200grain LSWC and 6.5 grains of Alliant Green Dot because it works in all of the guns. Actually 6.3 worked but 6.5 works better, them short barrel guns like the Micro can be particular. The Micro is a 3 inch the V-10 is 3-1/2, I believe a Commander is 4-1/4?

greener · Post by **greener** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:21 pm

Nice pair to draw to, Toy.

I've been nosing around the gun emporia and shows looking at compact semiautos. I haven't been that interested in 9mm. Watching this thread and listening to Len, I may be developing a need for a .45. They look nice.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:52 pm

greener wrote:Nice pair to draw to, Toy.

I've been nosing around the gun emporia and shows looking at compact semiautos. I haven't been that interested in 9mm. Watching this thread and listening to Len, I may be developing a need for a .45. They look nice.

Greener, just love them .45's especially for self defense and just plain shooting too. Remember a 9mm will expand but a.45 will never shrink.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:18 pm

Toy, here is what the Micro looks like. It has a 3 inch barrel and aluminum frame and goes an even 2 pounds loaded the V-10 has a 1/2 in longer ported barrel and slide and a steel frame and it weighs a 1/2 pound more and a special greeting just for you.

Howdy Tex from the Bear and I

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:34 pm

bearandoldman wrote:Greener, just love them .45's especially for self defense and just plain shooting too. Remember a 9mm will expand but a.45 will never shrink.

Braved the frigid 40° weather to check out bullet shrink. Looks like you were right.

I was pleased with the group until I retrieved the target and saw the low left. Guess I'll have to blame it on the Taurus.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:53 pm

Greener, my friend, as my mentor taught me for self defense, if you can keep all your shots within 2 minutes of felon you will live to be an old man like me.

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:01 pm

I'm a bit old and slow for the Nike defense.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:36 am

Looks like the Pb defense is concentric one. When things get a little hot you can always use the ventilation method.

R,
Bullseye