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Two yrs. ago I purchased this gun for personal protetion. It has a15-1 capsity and its combined weight and small 9mm rounds give off an accurate rapid fire. It is D/A and has tight actions all around. Ive shot over a dozen boxes of ammo through it w/ out malfunction. I got it for $500 and it was worth every penny. Overall the Ruger P89DC has my strongest recommendation.

I've shot these, they're alright but a bit bulky for my liking.

R,
Bullseye

Yeah, I do admit, it goes better under a jacket than a short. Sometimes I carry the Colt sp. instead.

Do you carry it with one in the chamber?

Yes Sir, I do.

My brother has one in DA/SA. The only thing I do not like is the long DA trigger stroke. Drove me nuts since it was about 1/8" longer than my Sig.

Let me ask yall a question. Ive tried alot to remove those tarnesh stains on the sides of the stianless hammer. What can I do about this? Remember , the top of the hammer is blued on the .38 so I dont want to damage . I havent tried sanding. Would sanding be a bad move.

If it's what I'm think you are referring too, Nu Car Polish. Works for most all finishes.

blue68f100 wrote:My brother has one in DA/SA. The only thing I do not like is the long DA trigger stroke. Drove me nuts since it was about 1/8" longer than my Sig.

I've read and heard pretty good reviews on the P89. I have a P90DC which probably has a very similar trigger. Very long, but not bad once you get accustomed to it.

The P-Series a blocky pistols and, on first look, not very elegant. They do shoot very well. Looks like a good buy.

Hmmm, stains on the SS. So what have you tried?

A product called bartenders friend rings a bell and found at the local food store, kind of like comet that did wonders to some SS products I had. Then there is Flitz it may work too. You could try wet sanding it, I'd use some sort of flat object on the paper and stroke in one direction only. The problem with that is unless you take the pistol apart you will likely never get close enough to the blue frame. Which will likely leave a noticeable line of sanded and not sanded.

What ever you use I'd still tape off the blued areas best I could on the frame and top of hammer.

Good luck

+1 on what Tbag had to say.

greener, do you use the decocker on your P90? i dont . I just let my hammer in like any of my other pistols. Ive just been doing it so long.

The only safe way to lower the hammer with a live round in the chamber is with the decocker. Which means you have to learn to shoot with the long stroke. If your's has a decocker is not a DAO it/s a DA/SA....

Theres just something about that hammer going wack while being chambered that makes me uneasy. I dont know much about the innerworkings of these guns which Im sure youll enliting me. How do you lower the hammer on all these revolvers and other guns that you have no choice. Should we render all these guns unsafe and discard of them? I havn't spilled a glass of tea since I was a kid and I havent mis fired a gun in my life. If we're worried about our finger slipping off the hammer while we're lowering it, we should probally stick w/ guns w/ live round indicators,grip safeties, hammerless pistols, capguns and so on. Iv'e got an old flintlock blackpowder rifle and I'm not going to dump the powder out of it everytime I wanta lower the hammer.