Can someone share their thoughts with me on my new Mark III concerns?
Ten days ago I purchased a Mark III 22/45. Purchased as new. Cleaned it when I got it, and took it to a local range the next day. Like it a lot. But, I am still having difficulty reassembling it, even following the manual instructions, and the guide in http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm. In the Ruger manual, step 7, I have to insert the magazine in order to complete the assembly. My manual does not mention doing this.
The dealer sold me the gun as new just ten days ago. According to a call made to Ruger my Mark III was manufactured in February of 2005, and shipped to a distributor in January of 2006. And now sold to me in February 2007. This sounds really stange to me. Any thoughts from anyone?
Another question... in the detailed breakdown guide on this site http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm, there appears an animation of the Mark III hammer movement when the trigger is pulled and the travel from a horizontal position to a vertical position. Does the hammer really travel this much? When I reassemble I always have to manually move the hammer forward from the horizontal position, but it never goes beyond a 45 degree travel distance. Is this right or does it travel to the real vertical postion as in the animation shown when actually fired? Don't know if I explained this correctly.
This is my first Ruger pistol and I am trying to learn more about it. Can someone clarify the above for me? Thanks.
Guntalk on line is a great site!
Mark III 22/45 reassembly step missing?
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
-
greener
I believe the hammer moves nearly vertical, but I would leave any definite statements to the experts.
The Ruger manual I have has you insert the mag twice during disassembly and twice during reassembly. If you follow those instructions, reassembly will work. Bullseye's are much simpler and clearer.
If your manual doesn't requre you to insert the mag, then make sure it for a MKIII and/or you have a MKIII. If you don't have one for a MKIII, you can get it from the ruger website.
PS. On reassembly, the hammer must be vertical when you put the mainspring back in.
The Ruger manual I have has you insert the mag twice during disassembly and twice during reassembly. If you follow those instructions, reassembly will work. Bullseye's are much simpler and clearer.
If your manual doesn't requre you to insert the mag, then make sure it for a MKIII and/or you have a MKIII. If you don't have one for a MKIII, you can get it from the ruger website.
PS. On reassembly, the hammer must be vertical when you put the mainspring back in.
Yes, the hammer must travel that far in order to strike the firing pin and detonate the cartridge rim. When you're reassembling your pistol, what you've described is the hammer not in the fully forward position. Here is an excerpt from the Ruger Instruction Manual, "Remember that it is essential that the hammer must be in its vertical, uncocked position as the mainspring housing is swung shut. If the housing is excessively difficult to close, the hammer is probably cocked."Another question... in the detailed breakdown guide on this site http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm, there appears an animation of the Mark III hammer movement when the trigger is pulled and the travel from a horizontal position to a vertical position. Does the hammer really travel this much?
Ensure that your instruction manual has this printed on the bottom of the cover, "AP & KAP 5/05 CR2" It was a change made to the original instruction manual due to several inaccuracies of the original version. If your manual doesn't describe the insertion and removal of the magazine, then it is likely one of the incorrect ones before the change. I published several corrections to the assembly/disassembly instructions and eventually Ruger added these to their manuals. You can go to this location and download a corrected .Pdf copy of the newer manual. Mark III instruction manual ver.2
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
one step at a time
Bullseye,
Please bear with me. I am trying to do this one step at a time.
I am looking at your Mark III Field Stipping Reassembly Procedures in http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm, and in particular Step #6 in the Reassembly, where it says, "Squeeze trigger and push hammer fully forward (uncocked position) with a punch or other long tool." How hard are you supposed to push? My hammer does NOT go beyond a 45 degree angle and definitely not fully forward with a simple push. On the bottom of the hammer there is a notch right below where it pivots (please excuse my non technical terms). And there apears to be a cam that rides there and when it the hammer comes forward and encounters the notch it prevents the hammer from going fully forward.
Please bear with me. I am trying to do this one step at a time.
I am looking at your Mark III Field Stipping Reassembly Procedures in http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm, and in particular Step #6 in the Reassembly, where it says, "Squeeze trigger and push hammer fully forward (uncocked position) with a punch or other long tool." How hard are you supposed to push? My hammer does NOT go beyond a 45 degree angle and definitely not fully forward with a simple push. On the bottom of the hammer there is a notch right below where it pivots (please excuse my non technical terms). And there apears to be a cam that rides there and when it the hammer comes forward and encounters the notch it prevents the hammer from going fully forward.
-
greener
I believe the cam you are referring to is the sear. Squeezing the trigger, moves the sear. When the hammer is under tension (as it would be from the mainspring), moving the sear causes the hammer to go forward. If the sear doesn't move, the hammer looks like it is at the 45 degree angle from the mainspring housing and will not go forward. (Try this with the barrel and receiver off applying forward pressure on the hammer. With a magazine in, when you pull the trigger the flat bar[disconnector lever] on the right side of the pistol moves with the trigger, moving the sear and the hammer will come forward).
Bulleye's step 6 "Squeeze trigger and push hammer fully forwards (uncocked position ) with a punch or other long tool. " Should be done while continuing to squeeze the trigger. Use a small screw driver, pencil or any other tool to move the hammer to the vertical. Note: Ruger's instructions tell you to turn the pistol upside down and the hammer will fall forward. Never happens on either of my MKIII's.
I tried what I think you are describing a couple of times and all I could come up with is that you are releasing the trigger before you move the hammer. The sear has a spring that returns it to the cocking position when the trigger is released. You have to keep the sear released while you move the hammer. Go to the detail strip page
[/url]http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm[url] and look at the animation on the trigger group operation.
Bulleye's step 6 "Squeeze trigger and push hammer fully forwards (uncocked position ) with a punch or other long tool. " Should be done while continuing to squeeze the trigger. Use a small screw driver, pencil or any other tool to move the hammer to the vertical. Note: Ruger's instructions tell you to turn the pistol upside down and the hammer will fall forward. Never happens on either of my MKIII's.
I tried what I think you are describing a couple of times and all I could come up with is that you are releasing the trigger before you move the hammer. The sear has a spring that returns it to the cocking position when the trigger is released. You have to keep the sear released while you move the hammer. Go to the detail strip page
[/url]http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm[url] and look at the animation on the trigger group operation.
Thank you Bullseye and greener for the input. I am new to the Ruger world and enjoy the learning experience. Sorry to sound so dumb.
First, yes, I do have the “AP & KAP 5/05 CR2” manual.
As suggested so clearly above I removed the barrel / receiver, inserted a magazine, pulled the trigger back and as explained above I could push the hammer fully forward. But for whatever reason, with the barrel / receiver and bolt installed, the hammer will not retract fully forward unless the magazine is inserted and the trigger pulled, AND the magazine left in to close the latch. I repeated this twice and it is the way it works for my Mark III, 22/45. The magazine disconnector hook appears to explain my case.
Thanks again for the tips.
First, yes, I do have the “AP & KAP 5/05 CR2” manual.
As suggested so clearly above I removed the barrel / receiver, inserted a magazine, pulled the trigger back and as explained above I could push the hammer fully forward. But for whatever reason, with the barrel / receiver and bolt installed, the hammer will not retract fully forward unless the magazine is inserted and the trigger pulled, AND the magazine left in to close the latch. I repeated this twice and it is the way it works for my Mark III, 22/45. The magazine disconnector hook appears to explain my case.
Thanks again for the tips.
-
greener