Page 2 of 2

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:30 pm
by blue68f100
The lip of the hammer catches the sear edge as it rotates up and forward.
This is unusual with the factory trigger. I think VQ changed suppliers for the sears and have a bunch out of spec.

You have the Clark MKII Bushing installed and the only other thing you changed was the sear.

Was this gun purchased new or used?

Bullseye, How much clearance is there suppose to be between the sear and disconnector leg at rest (no post travel screw)? The reason I ask, if someone filed disconnector catch/tab, this would increase the stroke required adding more pre-travel. I do not know if you can measure the clearance with the part installed. But moving the parts to out side of the frame you may be able too.

All of these sears problems makes me glad I just reworked the factory parts, and installed the Clark MK Bushing.

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:37 pm
by kseatm
Thanks guys.

Yes the gun was purchased new. I have done nothing to the disconnector, other than buff the sides to make sure nothing was dragging on the sides of the frame.

Everything you say makes sense and it's got to be a simple fix, it's just that I have to figure it out.

Sorry for the constant posts, I guess I'm just getting a little frustrated. I thought a new sear and bushing would be a quick fix for the trigger problem and since I've got money in it now, I don't really want the hassle of sending parts back.

Thanks again, I'll post an update on the modifications in a few weeks after I shoot it live.

Kenny

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:44 pm
by Bullseye
Blue,

Difficult to say without actually seeing this pistol. Clearly there's an issue with travel using these sears. A few thousandths may be all it needs but without a direct examination it is difficult to estimate.

R,
Bullseye

Latest update

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:48 am
by kseatm
Got It!

Ground the front of the trigger down a little and installed a pretravel screw (thanks to the guidance from this site). It made a huge difference in the amount of clearance between the sear and the hammer. It let go nicely but the hammer was rubbing against the sear after it released so I took a little more off the trigger, cleaned up the bottom of the hammer, added some blue loctite to the pretravel screw and put it all back together.

Took it out to shoot last night and the bullets kept jamming into the feed ramp. I then couldn't get the Mag to release from the pistol. Took it home and found the pretravel setting wasn't allowing the Mag to feed up high enough or letting it release. Backed the pretravel screw out quite a bit and got it to work.

Took it out this morning and kept adjusting the pretravel screw in a little at a time until everything worked. It did great! Really nice trigger pull. Shot 20 shots each of 8 different types of ammo to make sure everything functioned, and it did. It even shot the cheap bulk Rem and Win hollow points. Does the best with Wolf ME.

Still not as accurate as my 22a but the trigger pull allows me to shoot it much more accurately than before.

A big thank you to everyone who helped. After reading about every thread on this site I've learned more than I think I ever wanted to know about this pistol. If nothing else, I can take one apart and put it together with ease now.

I hope I haven't been a pest and again, Thank You!

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:28 pm
by perazzi
We need ruger mark assemblers/disassemblers patches for our shooting shirts. Lol

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:51 pm
by blue68f100
The knob on back of the trigger needs to be filed off so it does not contact the magazine. Then you can adjust the pre travel back.

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:51 pm
by Bullseye
I second what Blue just said. Take the Mark III trigger out of the pistol and file off the scallop on the backside. It doesn't serve a real useful purpose. It will cause hang-ups with a pretravel installed trigger body. Your factory trigger, without the scallop, would look a lot like this one.

Image

R,
Bullseye

Latest and hopefully final update

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:36 am
by kseatm
Bullseye and blue,

Thanks for the idea about the lip on the backside of the trigger. I had wondered about taking that off, but wasn't sure so I left it.

After seeing your post, I took it apart, filed the lip off, reassembled the pistol and reset the pretravel screw in quite a bit more.

It is Awesome! Just a little take up (which I suppose it is supposed to have to allow the disconnector to set) and then a really crisp and light trigger.

The Mag's go in and out with no problem and I've had no feeding problems this morning.

It's been an experience and without everyone's help I probably would have screwed something up but I'm very happy with what the end result is.

My 14 year old son shot it last evening and now he wants me to do the same modifications to his Mark III Std. He's been watching and trying to learn about these pistols as I have done the mods on mine and thinks I'm a genius! I showed him this website and now he's hooked!

Thanks again to everyone for lending your time and knowledge.

Kenny

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:19 pm
by Bullseye
Just happy to have lent a hand.

R,
Bullseye

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:06 am
by blue68f100
Glad you were able to get it fixed. These long distance dialogs can be hard even for simple things.