Uneven 1911 wear

[Georgezilla]

The inside of this pistols slide and out side part of the barrel bushing (part that slides into the slide) have a bit of uneven wear. The left hand side of both parts seem to have a small circle of wear, the right side does not have this wear (you may also recall this pistol's bushing favors one side of the slide: http://guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=945 )

Here is a picture of the slide. For some reason the program I normally use will not save an image zoomed in -- the center of the yellow circle is where the wear is located


Is this uneven wear just part of the break in process, perhaps a symptom of the the pistol's bushing favoring one portion of the slide? Is it something I should be concerned about? The pistol only has maybe about 3k rounds through it, mostly pet-loads.

Thanks!

[Bullseye]

I would inspect the bushing to see if there's a burr causing the gouge. It doesn't appear large enough to cause the offset. And if it did the wearing of the slide would indicate that the bushing should be close to normal positioning now.

R,
Bullseye

[Georgezilla]

The bushings wear does seem to be more raised than the slides wear. I actually tried to take a picture of the bushing -- but it's so shiny, it reflects too much light to get a decent picture.

if it did the wearing of the slide would indicate that the bushing should be close to normal positioning now.

If this were the case, wouldn't that open up the pistol's groups? If everything was fitted in the pistol based on the bushing, if its orientation changed, wouldn't it throw everything off?

[stork]

If this were the case, wouldn't that open up the pistol's groups? If everything was fitted in the pistol based on the bushing, if its orientation changed, wouldn't it throw everything off?

Georgezilla,
It depends on.

First, were the pits there the first time you dismantled the pistol?
If so, it may have been a poor casting.
If not, you probably got a granule of something very hard between the bushing and slide. Then when reinstalling the bushing it gouged the slide and probably the bushing.

The most important question is whether or not the pits affect the accuracy.

Is the barrel/bushing/slide fit still so tight that a wrench needs to be used to remove it.

Do you ALWAYS move the slide back at least 1/2" before removing the bushing?

Did you Ransom Rest the pistol when new?

If so, have you RR'd the pistol now and compared the targets? Assuming the same load for both tests.

I apologize in advance if the questions seem too basic, but there are a lot of shooters here who will wonder why I'm asking the questions. Thereby creating some traffic and the exchange of information.



REMEMBER, NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB QUESTION Its just a request for knowledge that hasn't been shared with you yet.

FWIW

[Georgezilla]

I think the pits were always there, just to a lesser degree. But I was mostly concerned about the burr in the center of the circle.

To get the bushing off, I have to use a wrench. I cant even budge it with my bare fingers. Though the bushing has loosened up significantly since the pistol was new.

When taking the pistol apart, I always pull the slide back to make sure the pistol is not loaded.

When the pistol was new, I did not own or have access to a RR; however, it came from the factory with a test target, i haven't looked at it in a while, but I think the group was a 10-shot 2" @ 50yards with Federal Gold-match.
Now that I have a RR, the range I go to will not let me use it at the 50yard range...

[stork]

Do you lube the bushing/slide area before inserting?

[Georgezilla]

Yup, always. The strange thing is that this is the first time I've noticed the wear; I inspect these parts every time I disassemble the pistol.

[stork]

How frequently do you remove the bushing and barrel from the slide?

The reason I ask is I used to take mine down and clean the bejabbers out of it every other week. My gunsmith told me to knock it off. I was wearing the perfect fit between the bushing and slide more in taking it apart all the time than I ever could have in shooting.

I now remove the slide from the frame and clean the barrel (very carefully) from the front and use q-tips to clean the rest of the interior of the slide and the lug recess'. I take it down completely only twice a year now (about every 2500 rounds). Just before indoor season in the fall and just before outdoor season in the spring.

The exception is if I go to the Camp Perry matches. Then all pistols get a complete cleaning and test firing the week before.

FWIW

[Georgezilla]

When the pistol was brand new and going through the brake in process, I'd field strip and clean it every 150ish rounds. Now that it is broken in well, I try to clean it every 600 - 700 rounds.

I have not heard of being that conservative in field stripping a 1911; though I only have a bit over one year's experience with one. Furthermore, the target shooting scene here in San Antonio leaves much to be desired (casing point, they wont let me use a RR...), so naturally I don't learn a whole lot about caring for a target pistol from local sources. Everything I learn about target guns is from this forum, or books.
Both sources have overall recommended a complete field stripping of the pistol every 600 - 1,000 rounds. The theory you learned from your gunsmith seems logical though. I think I will start using it as well.

[Bullseye]

Well it looks like Stork has filled in some of the details for you. If there is no burr on the bushing then it is possible that you picked up some grit during one of the tear downs and caused gouge in the slide during the installation. Sounds like the bushing to slide fit is still very tight.

As far as reducing field strips, I rarely take a bushing out of the slide. 600 to 700 rounds is about right as long as you're not experiencing cycling failures. I simply disassemble the pistol with the recoil spring and bushing installed as one unit. Remove the slide stop and grasp the slide with your fingers curled tightly over the slide to hold the recoil spring in place and slip it off of the front of the pistol's frame. Then slowly release the spring and guide rod and take it out of the slide. Wipe the insides of the pistol and barrel down with a clean cloth to take out any of the powder residue. If necessary, use Q-tips around the barrel to clean out the inside of the slide. Move the barrel forward and clean out the locking lugs with the Q-tips. Add a few drops of light oil to relubricate the lugs. I also clean out the breach with the cloth and scrub the breach face with a plastic bristle brush. This is a good time to run a brush and patch through the barrel and scrub out the chamber. I use a brass muzzle guide to protect the barrel crown from contact with the cleaning rod.

R,
Bullseye

[stork]

Georgezilla,

here's a link to the bullseye list. It's an exclusive list for bullseye shooters ONLY. the list owner doesn't allow posting on any other topic (which is why it appeals to me). There is an occasional off topic post, but very rarely.

You'll find posters there from all over the United States, Canada, England, Germany, Australia. People from every ability from beginning marksmen to High Masters. Nearly all are very open to sharing their knowledge.

I like the digest version vs the individual posting. I get a lot less clutter in my email box that way.

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://lists.lava.net/mailman/listinfo/bullseye-l
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
[email protected]

You can reach the person managing the list at
[email protected]

FWIW

[Georgezilla]

Thank you both very much! Thanks for mentioning that cleaning technique, Stork, and thank you for elaborating on it, Bullseye. I never would have thought about taking the pistol apart and cleaning it without removing the bushing.

The grit theory Stork mentioned does seem to be the logical cause of the marks.

Any tips on cleaning the barrel from the muzzle end (besides being super careful)? I was thinking maybe wrapping the cleaning rod in clothe, so if I accidentally slip, there will be no metal-on-metal contact.

[Bullseye]

I use a product like this one



It slips on the cleaning rod to protect the crown. They cost less than $5.

R,
Bullseye

[Georgezilla]

Thanks, Bullseye! what is this device called? Just so I know what to search for on Midway.

Though I am sure it works, I don't understand how it functions to protect the crown, seeing as it's metal. Seems like it would work better if it were plastic.

[Bullseye]

It's a Hoppes muzzle guide. Here's a link to Midway for you. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=311651

R,
Bullseye