Brass vs Nickel (38 Spl)
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- bebloomster
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:06 pm
- Location: Hi Desert, Ca
Brass vs Nickel (38 Spl)
Any preference for your "match" loads? Personally I've been using Federal brass (not nickel) for my S&W Model 52-2 mostly because I have an adequate quantity of them. Received an e-mail though that suggested Remington Nickel is generally pretty uniform and has thinner walls than a lot of the other headstamps... creates a more uniform bullet release. Any thoughts?
A day without sunshine is like..... night.
- blue68f100
- Master contributor
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- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
I have used Ni brass in my 357 Mag since I have owned my Python, same brass is now 30+ yrs old. Ni brass is suppose to be a little harder on your sizing die over brass due to the hard surface. I like Ni mainly because it does not tarnish, and you do not need to tumble it. In my other calibers Ni Brass indicates a different load or match grade load. So it pretty easy know what I'm picking up. I have seen a big difference in my die bought 30+yrs ago vs my newer one Hornady Dies. The Hornady bullet expander die is design to give you even tension all the way down. My 30+ yr die only expand the mouth to start the bullet. So I would say it's more on the dies your using vs the brass. All brass has to meed the same spec whether it's Ni or Br.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
- bebloomster
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- Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:06 pm
- Location: Hi Desert, Ca
Oops.... just heard from those that were talking about the Remington Nickel cases. What they were actually saying was that the R-P Nickel cases have a tendency to split at the case mouth before others due to being fairly thin. Not at all what I would be looking for.
A day without sunshine is like..... night.
The case mouth splitting happens because the Ni case is harder metal and doesn't take the expanding and crimping process as well as the brass cases.
If your using carbide sizing dies then you don't have as much to be concerned with using the nickle cases. A standard die will show wear fairly quickly, especially if you don't lubricate the cases well before resizing.
R,
Bullseye
If your using carbide sizing dies then you don't have as much to be concerned with using the nickle cases. A standard die will show wear fairly quickly, especially if you don't lubricate the cases well before resizing.
R,
Bullseye
- bebloomster
- Regular contributor
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- Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:06 pm
- Location: Hi Desert, Ca
My understanding is that cartridge cases generally do not need to be lubricated if using carbide dies. That's the main reason that I use carbide dies whenever possible. I also have been using brass cases exclusively as I've noted more effort is required to run a Nickel case through the same dies. I seriously doubt that I would ever wear out a carbide die in my lifetime even with Nickel cases though.
Will just continue to use only FEDERAL brass cases for use in my S&W Model 52-2 and any other headstamps in my K-38.
Will just continue to use only FEDERAL brass cases for use in my S&W Model 52-2 and any other headstamps in my K-38.
A day without sunshine is like..... night.