Ruger MkIII Trigger Blast Shield
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Ruger MkIII Trigger Blast Shield
Would like to get opinons on trigger blast shields, are they worth the effort or is it just adding something that may screw things up. Bullseye do you use one in your Rugers?
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
No Tom I do not have one in any of my Rugers. I have never found the need for them. The original maker went out of business and several people started making some home made ones on their own. I do not believe there are any more available out there for purchase. The one guy that had them used to sell them on e-bay occasionally but it has been several years since they've been up for sale.
They can keep crud out of the trigger group. If the trigger gets full of crud then it starts to feel gritty. I found that if one opens up the trigger return plunger hole that the feel stays smooth even when dirty. One drill number size makes a big difference in the smoothness feel of the trigger.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
They can keep crud out of the trigger group. If the trigger gets full of crud then it starts to feel gritty. I found that if one opens up the trigger return plunger hole that the feel stays smooth even when dirty. One drill number size makes a big difference in the smoothness feel of the trigger.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
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Righ you are my friend, with the hole opened up a couple thousndths it can be so dirty you can barely see the parts and it was still working good for me.Bullseye wrote:
They can keep crud out of the trigger group. If the trigger gets full of crud then it starts to feel gritty. I found that if one opens up the trigger return plunger hole that the feel stays smooth even when dirty. One drill number size makes a big difference in the smoothness feel of the trigger.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


See the link below.
Part #65 is the plunger. It goes in the hole on top of the trigger after the spring, part #64 is put in the hole. You can't miss it.
Its been my experience that periodic cleaning of this area really keeps things working smoothly. I polished the plunger and hole with emery paper and polished them with jewelers rouge. This also helped.
Ripsaw
http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem. ... T%20TARGET
Part #65 is the plunger. It goes in the hole on top of the trigger after the spring, part #64 is put in the hole. You can't miss it.
Its been my experience that periodic cleaning of this area really keeps things working smoothly. I polished the plunger and hole with emery paper and polished them with jewelers rouge. This also helped.
Ripsaw
http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem. ... T%20TARGET
You want to drill out the hole in the top of the trigger where the plunger sits. The current plunger hole is a standard #11 (.191") twist drill size. You can open it up to a standard #10 (.194") twist drill size. Take care to not drill the plunger hole any deeper than it is now, all you want to do is widen it a few thousandths. The OEM ruger trigger is aluminum and is very easy to drill. When opening an OEM trigger I don't even use an electric drill, I use a tap wrench and open the hole up by hand. If your drilling a Marvel or VQ use a drill press and set the depth to stop about 1/8" from the bottom of the hole. The plunger has a step shape and the plunger hole doesn't need to be opened up all the way to the bottom. This way there's no chance of deepening the plunger hole.
You can see the trigger spring plunger location here. Pistol Nomenclature
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
You can see the trigger spring plunger location here. Pistol Nomenclature
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
